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by ETI
Updated: 2 hours 30 min ago

Wood and Resin Necklace Pendants Tutorial

Mon, 08/13/2018 - 07:00

One of the most popular projects on the Resin Crafts Blog is my tutorial on how to make this Blue Wood and Resin Pendant using EasyCast. I decided to alter a few things and show you that you can make these using various shapes, colors and types of wood and they will still look awesome! Here’s how I made these red and green DIY Wood and Resin Necklace Pendants!

DIY Wood and Resin Necklace Pendants Supplies:


The first thing you need to do is cut your wood into small pieces that will fit into your molds. Then coat them entirely in Ultra Seal or another multipurpose glue sealer.

Next, spray the molds with Mold Release/Conditioner Spray and let it dry.

Mixing Resin:

Read the instructions thoroughly and put on your vinyl gloves and eye protection. Mix equal amounts of parts A and B in one of the small cups. Mix thoroughly then pour into a second clean cup and mix for another minute. This ensures that all of the resin is mixed completely.

Next add your pigment or dye to the resin and mix completely. I did two batches because I did two different colors.

Use a micro butane torch, or just exhale over each piece, to pop all the bubbles.

Let the resin cure for about 24 hours. Once cured they should pop out of the molds easily.

Shaping Pendants:

Use a Dremel tool or another rotary tool that has a sanding attachment to shape your pendants. As you will see I sanded off the excess wood and even altered the shape of some of these in order to make the wood and resin combination look really cool! This step is REALLY messy and you definitely want to wear eye protection and respiratory protection.

Sand with the sanding attachment.

Then sand again on ultra fine sandpaper. This is 800 grit. I used this then even finer grit to get it nice and smooth.

Once your pieces are the shape you want, wipe off all the dust with a damp cloth so they don’t look all powdery like they do here.


The next step will be to drill holes for the jump rings you’ll add to turn these into necklaces. I have tiny drill bit attachments for my Dremel and used one of those.

The final step is to coat the pendants with the Clear Gloss Resin Finish/Sealer Spray. I ended up doing three coats of this but that will be personal preference.

And there you have it! Beautiful DIY Wood and Resin Necklace Pendants! What do you think? Do you like these as much as the blue Wood and Resin Pendant from last year? Let me know in the comments!

If you like these red and green DIY Wood and Resin Necklace Pendants, please share this post on Pinterest using this image:

You can share on other social media with the buttons on the left of this page too!

Let me know what you think in the comments and thanks again for reading!


Other posts you may find interesting:

DIY Wood and Resin Clock

Wood and Resin Pendant using EasyCast

Sparkling Dripped Resin Pendants

Amazing DIY Wood Signs

Fri, 08/10/2018 - 09:54

Have you guys gone Pinterest surfing lately for some house decor inspiration? Something we’ve been seeing a lot of lately are those gorgeous DIY wood signs that seem to be so popular. In stores, these signs cost such a fortune, it’s unbelievable. As usual, Resin Crafts Blog is all about that DIY life; creating something great out of a few materials in an affordable way. We’ve rounded up some amazing DIY Wood Signs that you can create yourself while saving some coin!

Which ones will you create?

Amazing DIY Wood Signs

DIY Painted Wood Sign | Darice Blog

DIY Gather Sign | Just A Girl And Her Blog

DIY Anniversary Signs | Inspiration Made Simple

DIY Stencil Sign | Creative Ramblings Blog

DIY Large Wood Sign | Christina’s Adventures

DIY ‘Home Is Where The Heart Is’ Sign | Lolly Jane

DIY Mason Jar Wood Sign | The Country Chic Cottage

DIY Painted Wood Sign | The Frugal Homemaker

 DIY Monogram Sign | Typically Simple

DIY Pallet Wood Sign | The Kim Six Fix

Paper Mosaic Tile High Gloss Resin Wood Frame DIY

Wed, 08/08/2018 - 07:00

Paper Mosaic Tile High Gloss Resin Wood Frame DIY

Make today awesome with an especially fun resin craft!  Hi friends, it’s Natalie from Doodlecraft, sharing another fun project.  This paper mosaic frame is a cinch to make and can be as simple or complicated as you want to make it!  Finish it off to a professional shine using Envirotex Lite High Gloss Resin.

Supplies Needed:
  • Chunky wood frame
  • Variety of colored cardstock paper cut into 1/2 inch squares
  • Tape runner adhesive
  • Ultra Seal or other clear drying adhesive
  • Paintbrush
  • Envirotex Lite High Gloss Resin
  • Disposable work surface, gloves, stirring sticks, mixing cups, extra cups for height, painters tape

Paper Piecing!

First, begin by lightly wiping off the wooden frame to remove any dust.

Next, adhere a line of adhesive tape across the edge of the inside of the frame.  Then press the cut paper squares on the tape, leaving a little gap between the papers, like a grout line.

The tape line is not covered completely by the paper squares, but will be covered with the resin later.  Continue building row by row of paper squares.  Create a unique pattern or image…or just randomly place squares.  Do not worry about cutting some pieces smaller to fit. 

Continue adding paper squares as seen pictured below.

In essence, fill the entire wood frame with little bits of paper.  These don’t have to be square, they could be cut in all sorts of shapes and sizes.

Paper Sealing!

Once the paper is secure, the next step is to coat the entire top with Ultra Seal. This will seal in the paper and keep edges from lifting.

Let the Ultra Seal dry completely.

Next, position a piece of painters tape all along the outside edges of the bottom of the frame.

High Glossing!

Next get the Envirotex Lite High Gloss Resin.  This finish takes the project from a kids craft to a professional glassy looking tile project!  Just 8 ounces of mixed resin covers 1 foot square, so this small package was plenty for this craft frame.

Mix the resin according to package directions. Stir equal parts of resin and hardener for 2 minutes.  Then pour into another cup and stir again for one more minute.

Set the frame up on extra cups as risers and then immediately pour the mixed resin over the top of the frame.  Use a stirring stick to smooth the resin to the edges of the frame.  It will self level as it dries.  Cover with a big box so that dust does not settle on it during the drying process.  Use a mini torch to pop any bubbles that surface after about 10 minutes.

After 24 hours it is ready to display!  Looks amazing, like real tile!

Up close it’s obviously paper on wood, but the high gloss gives it such a glossy shine that it’s hard to tell.

Would you make a organized pattern or random for your mosaic tile frame? 

Check out this fun Mosaic Project too!


DIY Faux Stained Glass Suncatcher

Mon, 08/06/2018 - 07:00

Hello, Resin Crafters! I think that stained glass suncatchers are so beautiful. Making your own real stained glass is very difficult though, and sometimes finding a suncatcher that matches your style or decor can be near impossible or very pricey.  I’m so excited today to show you how you can make your own easy, custom, faux stained glass suncatcher with Envirotex Lite Pour-On Epoxy!

Faux Stained Glass Suncatcher Supply list:

The first step in this project is to find or create a design you love.  You can draw one yourself, or you can find free templates by searching for stained glass design outlines.  I created my own using my pet parrot as inspiration.   Print out the design in the same size as the glass piece you are choosing to work with.  Mine is 8×10

Remove the glass from the frame and make sure it’s nice and clean.  Place your design under the glass and trace it using the puff paint on top of the glass.  Allow the puff paint to dry for at least 4 hours before moving on to the next step.

Once the puff paint is dry you will need to mix your Pour-On Epoxy.   This project requires very small amounts of epoxy.  Mix 1/2 – 2oz of each color depending on the size you’ll need to cover.  Follow the instructions on the packaging carefully.  Combine equal parts of the Resin and Hardener and stir for 2 minutes.  After 2 minutes, pour the epoxy into a clean cup and mix for an additional minute.  After you’ve finished mixing the Epoxy, add several drops of the pigments or dyes and stir until combined.  Use the epoxy mixture immediately after mixing.

*Project tip: Keep a prepared mold on hand to pour extra epoxy into to avoid waste.  Make some buttons or jewelry pendants, maybe even some cabinet knobs with any extra epoxy you might not need on the suncatcher. Prepare these molds before you start the suncatcher so they are ready to go if any epoxy is leftover. 


I filled in the background first and used about 2oz of epoxy to fill it.  The transparent dyes are super light in color.  If you mix a tiny bit of the opaque pigments into it, they’re still pretty transparent, but darker in color.  I used a little of both.   Use a heat gun, torch or your warm breath to remove any bubbles that rise to the surface after you pour the epoxy.

Allow the background pour to cure for a few hours.  If you try to do it all at once, all of the colors will just bleed together over the lines.  I allowed my yellow background to cure for at least 4 hours before moving on.  Allow each color to cure a few hours before moving on to the next.

Once you have all of the colors finished and the stained glass filled in, allow the suncatcher to cure overnight.

Put the glass back into the frame.  If you wish to hang the suncatcher, you can attach a wire to the frame for hanging.

With a little bit of practice, you could make some very intricate and beautiful designs!

I think I will add a faux stained glass to my china cabinet doors next!  What stained glass design will you create for your suncatcher?

Must-Have Back To School Ideas

Fri, 08/03/2018 - 07:00

It’s happening. You walk into the store and all of the summer-fun product has been replaced with all things back to school. Just like that, in the blink of an eye, the kids have to get ready to go back to school! This time of year can be pretty overwhelming for both parent and child, but overwhelm aside, it’s also a very exciting time! We’ve rounded up some of the best must-have back to school ideas that’ll make sure everyone is ready to rock that first day of school. Enjoy!

Back to School T-Shirt | The 36th Avenue

DIY Apple Hoop Art | Live Laugh Rowe

DIY Back To School Gift | Eighteen 25

DIY Stuffed Paper Apples Project | Buggy and Buddy

First Day Back To School Printable | Oh My Creative

DIY Backpack Tag | Lolly Jane

DIY First Day Of School Chalkboard Printable | Yellow Bliss Road

S’Mores Back To School Teacher Gift | The Girl Creative

DIY Homework Station | Clean and Scentsible

Back To School Teacher Gift Tags | Skip to My Lou


DIY Wood Coasters with the Cricut Maker and Resin

Wed, 08/01/2018 - 07:00

I have been wanting to make some DIY wood coasters ever since getting the Cricut Maker. You see it cuts thin wood pieces and is perfect for projects like these.  Just add some accents and protection over the top with EnviroTex Lite® Pour On High Gloss Finish and you have pretty and functional coasters you can be proud of.

Supplies needed to make these DIY wood coasters:


Start by cutting your wood pieces with the Cricut Maker.  For each coaster you will need two round circles with no cut out and one round circle with your shape cut out.  We are using a starfish for our example but feel free to design this project with any shape that you like.  You will need to use the knife blade in the Cricut Maker for cutting this wood.

Use wood glue to stack your pieces up.  Two round circles then the circle with the cut out on top.  Be sure to cover the entire thing with glue as shown so the resin does not leak under when poured.  Press them down well and allow to dry completely.

Then paint the entire thing with craft paint.  Paint the inside of the cut out with the craft paint as well.  Allow to dry.  Then mix up some EnviroTex Lite® Pour On High Gloss Finish and add in the pigment color of your choice.  Pour mixture into the inlay to get a contrast on your DIY wood coasters.  Pop any bubbles and allow to cure completely.

Be sure to follow all mixing instructions when working with epoxy resin.  The most common mistakes are not mixing properly.

Once that has cured, you can now pour a clear coat of EnviroTex Lite® Pour On High Gloss Finish over the top of the entire thing.  Once again, measure and mix well according to the package instructions.  Then pour on just enough to reach the edges.

Pop any bubbles and allow to cure overnight.  You may want to check a few times to make sure no resin pours over the edges before curing.

Once cured, your DIY wood coasters are ready for any room in your home.

The protective finish will hold up for a long time and you will love being able to make customized coasters right in your own home with the Cricut Maker.

Whip up a batch to match your home decor, for gifts, or even just for a themed party!

Be sure to make some DIY wood coasters soon!

Lighted Desktop Galaxy with Layered Resin

Mon, 07/30/2018 - 07:00

Hello Resin Crafters! Did you know that you can create fun effects and art pieces by simply layering resin with paints and other items? Each layer of the resin, when allowed to cure for a few hours, can hold a separate layer of the design.  Using layered EasyCast Clear Casting Epoxy you can create a fun, light up galaxy for your desk or use it as an awesome one of a kind nightlight.   Layered Resin projects take some time to complete.  Depending on the number of layers you want, it can take days.  But the amount of active project time is really not very long.

Layered Resin Galaxy Supply List:

The first step in layering resin is to choose and condition your mold.  I am using a 3″ x 6″ re-useable plastic mold for my desktop galaxy. You can choose a mold in any shape or size, but the mold should be at least an inch deep to get the layered effects.   Use a Mold Release spray inside the mold and allow it to dry completely before use.  This very important step will help to release the cured resin project when you are finished.

Start by mixing a small amount of EasyCast Clear Casting Epoxy to add to the bottom of your mold.  This first layer should be clear.  I used 2 oz of resin for my first layer.   Mix carefully according to package directions. To achieve the best result, combine equal parts of the Resin and Hardener in a cup and stir for two minutes.  Be sure to scrape the sides and bottom of the cup. After 2 minutes, pour the mixture into a clean cup, and stir again for one additional minute.   After pouring the Epoxy into the mold, remove any bubbles that form using a heat gun, small torch, or your warm breath.  Allow this layer to cure for at least 4 hours.

Once the resin has cured for several hours, it should have a fairly solid top.  It doesn’t need to be fully cured to continue.  Using a glitter or glitter paint, add dots for stars on top of the semi-cured resin.  Allow the glitter paint to dry before continuing.

Pour another small layer of Epoxy onto the first.  Use the same mixing techniques.  I used 1.5 oz of resin for each additional layer I added after the first.  Be sure to remove the bubbles each time you pour a new layer of the layered resin.

After the second layer of resin has cured for several hours, take a paintbrush and add the first layer of the galaxy details.  Start with the lightest color you choose.   I think of the details as clouds.  Galaxy clouds.  I used white paint for my first layer.   Add some additional glitter stars if you wish.

Continue with the layered resin and details.  Allow each layer of fresh Epoxy to cure for at least 4 hours before painting the details on.

If all of this is very confusing, you can watch a video here to help clarify:

The last layer of epoxy should be tinted black.  I used black acrylic paint to tint the resin. You can use an opaque resin pigment as well.  A little goes a long way.  I used 2 oz of black tinted resin for the top layer.  After the black layer, allow the entire layered galaxy to cure for at least 24 hours before removing it from the mold.

Once it is fully cured, you should be able to pop it right out of the mold by pushing gently on the back of the mold.   Use a drill and a small drill bit to add several holes into the layered resin. Be sure not to drill all the way through.  I varied the depth of my holes, but none of them went more than 3/4 of the way through the mold.

Poke small wire LED lights into each hole. When you turn them on, they make the whole galaxy sparkle like it’s full of real stars!

Use your pretty new lighted layered resin galaxy as a desktop decoration and conversation piece, or it can function as a fun nightlight for a child’s bedroom.

Colorful DIY Resin Jewelry

Fri, 07/27/2018 - 07:00

As many of you are aware, we’re addicted to the many different ways you can use Resin in your daily life. On a mission to share these ways with everyone, we’ve rounded up some of our favorite DIY Resin Jewelry projects. They come in many shapes, colors and sizes and are the perfect present for someone in your life or just simply to treat yourself! Let’s get crafting, friends.

Which ones will you create?

DIY Faux Crystal Pendant 

Sea Glass Inspired Jewelry 

DIY Seashell Pendants

DIY Dripped Resin Pendants

DIY Resin Glitter Rings

DIY Resin Dipped Earrings

DIY Trinket Spoon Necklace 

DIY Gold and Silver Leaf Pendants

DIY Rolled Paper Resin Pendant 

DIY Resin Coated Feather Necklace

Resin Faux Crystal Wire Wrapped Pendant Necklace DIY

Wed, 07/25/2018 - 07:00

Resin Crystal Wire Wrapped Pendant!

Hey Resin Crafters, it’s Natalie from Doodlecraft with another especially fabulous resin project.  Crystals are uniquely beautiful and here’s a fun way to make your own.  I love crystals, I wanted to be able to make them myself when I was little…you just need sediment and pressure, right–like a couple books?  Haha!  Happy to report that I’ve figured out a much simpler way to make one.

Supplies needed:

Casting Resin:

Begin by reading the directions for the resin you are using.  If you want a clear crystal: use the EasyCast Epoxy Resin.  If you want a color opaque crystal: use the FastCast, and it sets in 15 minutes!  Start by measuring how much resin you will need by filling the mold with water and then pouring it in a mixing cup.  Mark how much resin is needed, then pour half the amount of resin in the cup, then the hardener to the mark.  Then mix the resin according to the package directions and add dye if desired.  Pour in the mold and let it set. FastCast will set in 15 minutes, EasyCast will set overnight.  Then remove the resin from the mold and repeat as desired.

Wire Wrapping:

Now that the crystal is formed, it is time to wrap with wire.  

Cut 2 pieces of 24 gauge wire that are 12 inches long each.

Next, line up the 2 wires and fold them gently in half, keeping a wide arch at the center.

Twist the two wires, thus making a pendant loop in the process.

Next, spread the four wires out in each direction as seen pictured below.

Place the pendant loop at the top center of the faux crystal.

Now run the wires down the sides of the crystal while holding them tight at the tip.  Immediately twist the 4 wires tightly about 4 times.

The next steps is simply where your creative side takes over.  Twist, wrap and circle the crystal with one of the wires.  

Near the end of the wire, wrap it around one of the wires running down the crystal and twist it around tightly.

Use the pliers to curl the ends around to hold the wires tight and in place.

Repeat in like manner, in the opposite direction, with another wire.  Finally the remaining 2 wires are to be twisted together.

Next, use that last wire and wrap it around the same as the earlier wires. 

Finally, finish off the necklace with a 27 inch chain and secure the chain with one jump ring.

Repeat the same process as many times as there are crystals!

Do you like the clear crystal with silver wire or the gold wire and turquoise crystal?

This is a fantastic first resin project if you haven’t tried it before.  Make necklaces for unique handmade gifts!


DIY Replacement Game Piece using Epoxy

Mon, 07/23/2018 - 07:00

Let’s talk board games. We all have missing game pieces, right? Recently, my kids lost a piece to our chess set. Chess cannot be played without all the pieces. We tried replacing it with a building block or other various small objects, but one day it occurred to me that I could create a mold from the other pawn piece and cast a replacement piece using epoxy! Here’s how I made this DIY Resin Replacement Game Piece.


Making the Mold:

EasyMold Silicone Putty is one of the easiest products I’ve used. Put on your disposable gloves and take a small amount of Part A out of the container, roll it into a ball, then do the same with Part B. You want to have about the same amount of each.

Begin to knead the two parts together until they are one uniform purple color.  You only have 3 minutes to work with this, so you don’t want to waste time.

Shape it into a large block then press your piece top-side-down into the putty. For mine it was important to get it straight down so that when I cast the epoxy it will be level on the bottom of the piece.

Let the silicone putty set for an hour then remove your piece.

You will need to let your mold cure for 24 hours before using EasyCast Clear Casting Epoxy inside of it. If you need it cured quickly, there is also a baking option in the instructions. I was able to wait until the next day to do my casting so this wasn’t an issue for me.

Casting the New Game Piece:

Use EasyCast Clear Casting Epoxy. Again, wear gloves! Pour equal amounts of Part A and Part B into your disposable measuring cups.

Stir thoroughly with your wooden stir stick.

Pour into a second cup and stir again. This ensures that all of the epoxy is mixed thoroughly.

Now pour your epoxy into your mold. Pour slowly and in the same spot to try to reduce the amount of bubbles.

There will be bubbles. I actually ended up having a lot in mine so I did my best to remove them with the micro butane torch.

Let cure for 24-48 hours depending on the temperature of your room. (Again, refer to the instructions inside the packaging.)

Once cured, remove your brand new piece from your mold and place it into your game! Mine ended up looking slightly different (and had a few bubbles on the sides) but it’s the same size as all the other pieces. This could work for many different games! If you need to color the epoxy you can always use some of the Transparent Dyes or Opaque Dyes made for epoxy to match your other game pieces.

I hope this tutorial helps some of you solve the problem of missing game pieces!

If you like this tutorial, please share using the social media buttons on the left! Pin this image to Pinterest:


Other tutorials you may like:

DIY Chocolate Molds using EasyMold Silicone Putty

Wood and Resin Pendant using EasyCast


Creative DIY Resin Molds

Fri, 07/20/2018 - 07:02

Happy Friday, friends! Hopefully you are in the crafting mood this weekend because we have some great projects for you to tackle. One of our favorite things to do here at Resin Crafts Blog is use molds to create amazing things. Such a simple project that offers amazing results. It’s such a versatile option that allows you to create all different kinds of projects! Stay tuned for some of our favorite DIY Mold options.

Which ones will you create?

Creative DIY Resin Molds

DIY Seashell Pendant

DIY Ornate Resin Frame Magnets

DIY Geometric Succulent Planters

DIY Rubber Ducky Jelly Soap 

DIY Sequin Knobs for Jar Lids 

DIY Lego Candy Mold

DIY Peacock Feather Coaster 

DIY Pencil Holder Mold 

DIY Geometric Crystal Bookend 

DIY Flower Paperweight 

DIY Chocolate Letter Molds 


Sea Glass Inspired Resin Jewelry

Mon, 07/16/2018 - 07:00

I love the look of sea glass, but it is not easy to find where I live.  I’ve created a few faux sea glass projects on my own blog, but I haven’t yet tried making faux sea glass from resin.  When looking at the EasyCast jewelry mold, I saw a few of the cavities looked perfect for the project.  I used this sturdy mold to create some sea glass inspired resin jewelry that is perfect for summer!


Begin by spraying the EasyCast jewelry mold with mold release.  (Be sure to shake the mold release well before use.)  Let the mold dry while you create the resin mixture.

Create the resin mixture by mixing together 1 ounce of resin and 1 ounce of hardener in a large mixing cup.  You could also mix 1/2 ounce each of resin and hardener in two separate small cups.  I just find it is easier to stir in the large mixing cup.  Whatever method you choose, stir for 2 full minutes — making sure to scrape the sides and bottom of the cup.  Transfer the mixture to another cup, and stir for another minute.

If you mixed the resin in a large cup, divide the mixture equally into two small cups.

Add a small amount of opalescent pigment and 2-3 drops of blue transparent pigment to one of the cups.  Add a small amount of opalescent pigment , 1 drop of blue transparent, and 1-2 drops of green transparent pigment to the second cup.  Stir both cups until the pigments are even distributed.

Carefully pour the resin into the jewelry mold.  Pour less than you think you will need.  It is better to have the mold slightly under-filled than to have it overflow.  I learned this the hard way and had to do some clean up in between the mold cavities.  Let the resin sit for 20 minutes.  If after this amount of time there are still bubbles on the surface of the resin, you can pop them with a long handled lighter or small torch.  Allow the resin to cure.

Remove the resin pieces from the mold by inverting the mold and pressing firmly in the center of each filled cavity.

Use a pair of sharp scissors to trim off any resin edges caused by overflow.

Because real sea glass is translucent, not transparent, you will need to make the resin a bit cloudy.  Do this by rubbing the back side of each resin piece on 150 grit sandpaper to rough up the surface.

The back of the resin piece should look something like this.

Sanding the back of the resin creates a cloudy look to the front of the resin piece.  You could skip this step if you don’t have sandpaper on hand, but it really adds realism to the resin sea glass.

Next, add small holes to the top of the pieces you will use for pendants or dangling earrings with a Dremel or very small drill bit.

Add jump rings to the drilled holes.  Then attach the jewelry pieces to a necklace chain or earring findings.

Now you have gorgeous sea glass inspired jewelry that you made yourself. Since the mold has so many different shapes that can be filled at once, you can make jewelry for yourself and all your friends in one go!  Where would you wear your faux sea glass jewelry?



Amazing Resin Pouring Projects

Fri, 07/13/2018 - 07:00

Did you catch resin pouring month here last month? So many fun and inspiring project, don’t you think?! Poured resin is so much fun to work with and it’s amazing how many different incredible things you can create! We here at Resin Crafts Blog like to share as many cool projects as we possibly can so you guys can join in on the fun. Which one of these projects will you create?

DIY Poured Resin Marble Coasters

DIY Poured Resin Side Table 

DIY Poured Resin Gold Leaf Canvas Art

DIY Poured Resin Plant Stand

DIY Colorful Dripped Resin Artwork

DIY Poured Resin Chevron Wood Arrow 

DIY Marbled Resin Coasters

DIY Custom Silicone Molds and Seashell Pendants

Wed, 07/11/2018 - 08:00

Hi Resin Crafters! This is Kelli, from the Craft Shack popping in again today to share a super fun summer style resin craft.  Very few things say summer more to me than the beach. These fun seashell pendants are simple to make, and you can make your own custom silicone mold to reuse over and over again.   It’s simple to do!

Here’s what you’ll need to make Custom molds and Seashell Pendants:

First, you’ll need to make the seashell molds.  Start by taking equal parts of the two silicone putty components. Mix part A with part B and knead until there is no more visible white.  Once it’s mixed, you only have 3 minutes to work, so you’ll need to work quickly.

Take your mixed putty, and form it around the seashell, leaving an opening in the putty where the seashell opening is also.  Squish it onto the seashell real good to give your seashell pendants great definition.

Before your three minutes is up, be sure to press the mold onto the table to form a flat side so that your mold doesn’t tip and fall while you’re filling it later.  If you don’t get a flat side on your mold (I didn’t on some of mine!) don’t worry, you can prop the mold up ok without it. It’s just simpler with the flat end.

Allow the mold to cure for at least 25 minutes.  When it feels firm and dry, you can bend it carefully and pull your seashell out.  Don’t use too much force, or it will tear.  Gently wiggle the seashell until it is freed from the mold.   Rinse your mold to wash out any leftover seashell particles and allow it to air dry completely.

Next, lets make our Seashell Pendants! Mix your epoxy to cast in the molds.  Mix equal parts of the Resin and the Hardener.  Stir for 2 minutes.  Pour mixture into a clean cup, and stir for an additional minute. Be sure to always wear gloves and eye protection when handling Epoxy.  Once your epoxy is mixed you can tint or dye it to whatever colors you want to make the shells.

I wanted my seashell pendants to be transparent, so I used transparent dyes.  I mixed blue and red and added a little bit of glitter too for some sparkle in my shells.

Pour the epoxy into the shell mold.  Tap it lightly to free any bubbles and use a kitchen torch, or heat gun gently over the epoxy to pop any bubbles that surface.

Allow the shells to cure overnight.

After the shells have cured, gently remove them from the molds.  If your shells look cloudy, you can spray them with some Castin’ Craft Resin Spray Finish to brighten them up again.

Use a hand drill with a small bit to put a hole in one end of your shell.

Thread a string, or jewelry findings through the hole to create a necklace with your fun seashell pendants.

Or you could just use the pretty transparent seashells for decoration.  They would look pretty with a sea foam green colored dye, like sea glass seashells! I love that the red and blue resin mixed when I poured them into the molds to create a pretty purple ombre effect.  What color would you make your seashells?

Ornate Mini Resin Frame Art Magnets DIY

Mon, 07/09/2018 - 07:00

Ornate Mini Resin Frame Art Magnets DIY

Hi Resin Crafters, it’s Natalie from Doodlecraft, showing another creative and unique way to use resin.  Ornate frames are over-the-top gilded and typically seen in art museums.  That makes these ornate framed art magnets a fun addition to the fridge, school locker or miniature dollhouse!  Pick your favorite works of art or have the kids draw a custom piece to fit.

Supplies needed:

Ornate Frame Mold

Fast Cast Resin

Printed Art Picture or Custom Art

EnviroTex Lite High Gloss Resin


Ultra Seal

Hot Glue/Gun


E6000 Glue

Metallic Spray Paints

Disposable work surface, mixing cups, stirring sticks, gloves

Heat gun/mini torchThe pink silicone mold was purchased, but the purple one was made using EasyMold Silicone Putty and a small frame.  Directions for mold making on this post.Start by filling the molds with water and then dumping the water from the molds into a measuring cup.  Then mix the Fast Cast according to package directions in the quantity needed.  Fast Cast works super quickly and sets in about 15 minutes.  Pop the frames out of the molds.Next, use metallic spray paint to color the frames.  Gold, silver and copper are great metallics for ornate frames, let them dry completely.Print off favorite art pieces or draw your own to fit the inside of the frames.  These would be so cute with a child’s first artwork scanned and sized to fit.

Cut a piece of sturdy chipboard 1/4 inch bigger than the pictures.  Coat the chipboard with Ultra Seal and let it dry.  Then use Ultra Seal to adhere the art picture to the chipboard and coat the picture with Ultra Seal and let it dry completely.Next, pipe a thick bead of hot glue around the edge of the frame.  Make sure it is a solid line so that none of the EnviroTex Lite High Gloss resin will leak out.While the glue is still hot, carefully lift the frame and set firmly on the chipboard/picture.
Repeat the process for all frames and pictures.  They look great as is, but here’s where they get kicked up a notch!Set up a work space for the high gloss resin.  Read the directions thoroughly before mixing the resin.  Mix the resin in the 2 phase manner directed.

Next, pour the high gloss resin into the frame, this will act as shiny glass in the ornate frame.Let the resin sit for about 20 minutes and the bubbles will surface.Then use a heat gun or mini torch to heat and remove the bubbles.  Then let the resin cure for 24 hours.

This copper framed piece is Water Lilies by Claude Monet.
When the resin is cured there will be no odor.  Then they are ready to adhere magnets to the back using E6000 glue.This is one of my favorites, The Starry Night by Vincent Van Gogh.And of course, Mona Lisa by Leonardo Da Vinci.  What works of art would you put in an ornate frame?  Let me know in the comments!


Inspiring Thrift Store Makeovers

Fri, 07/06/2018 - 07:00

Adding new pieces to your home whether that be decor or furniture can be a really exciting thing. However, the price tags of trying to purchase all new items can be a pretty daunting thing. That’s the beauty of getting crafty and taking a trip to your local thrift store. We have rounded up some amazing thrift store makeovers to help get you inspired to tackle your own thrifty projects!

Campaign Style Desk Makeover | Blue i Style Blog

China Cabinet Makeover | Bower Power

Striped Stool Makeover | Our Southern Home

Thrift Store Tray Makeover | Refresh Restyle

Thrift Store Clock Makeover | DIY Beautify

DIY Laundry Sign | Artsy Chicks Rule

Thrift Store Bowl Makeover | Blooming Homestead

DIY Desk Makeover | The Kim Six Fix

Thrift Store Lamp Makeover | At Home With The Barkers

Spice Rack Makeover | Addicted 2 DIY



Resin Fairy Garden Light Catchers

Wed, 07/04/2018 - 07:00

These resin fairy garden light catchers are the perfect way to bring a little woodland magic to your room!

With the warmer days here to stay, I imagine the depths of the forest floor slowly coming to life. Plants that have lay dormant for months have reached for the sunshine. The moss is starting to get greener and little mushrooms and toadstools are beginning to emerge. It’s almost magical and I can just picture the little fairies tapping their wands to make everything grow again.

DIY Resin Fairy Garden Light Catchers

There is something about the moss and forest floor that is so peaceful and serene. Resin allowed me to recreate and capture a bit of this serenity and make these mini fairy garden light catchers. They look beautiful hanging in my bathroom window reflecting the rays of sunlight and make me smile each time I see them.

Although these little fairy gardens make lovely lightcatchers, they’d also be pretty each on their own as paperweights on a desk or even unique coasters for your morning coffee cup.

Materials Needed for these Resin Fairy Gardens
  • EasyCast Clear Casting Epoxy
  • Mold Release Conditioner
  • Castin’ Craft reusable casting molds: I used the MC-2 (2-1/4″x 2-5/8″ x 1-1/8″ deep), MC-3 (2-3/8″x Dia. x 1-1/8″ deep), and MC-4 (2-1/8″x 3-1/4″ x 1-1/8″ deep)
  • Measuring cups, wooden craft sticks, straw, paper towels
  • Multi-colored dried moss
  • Bead Gallery silver plated insect beads (ladybugs, dragonfly, butterflies)
  • Tiny Treasures Woodland Fairytale Toadstools
  • Bead Landing eye pins

How to Make a Resin Fairy Garden

Read all package instructions. Use gloves and work in a well-ventilated area on a surface protected with plastic or newspaper.

Prepare the molds using a Mold Release Conditioning agent.

Arrange the moss and toadstools loosely in the molds.

Mix resin (1 oz total for each mold).

Pour about 1/2 oz of mixed resin over the moss and toadstools in each mold.

Gently submerge and rearrange the moss in the molds using the wooden stir sticks.

Add in the insect beads. Pour the remainder of the resin equally in each mold.

Let the resin set for about 1 minutes and then blow off any bubbles which rise to the top using a straw or with a kitchen torch.

Place on a level surface, cover and allow the resin to set at least 4 hours.

Mix another ½ oz of resin (total volume) for each of the molds. Pour into the molds ensuring that all contents are completely submerged.

Optionally, add a few more beads into each arrangement.

Blow off any air bubbles as previously, place on level surface, cover and allow the resin ot set for at least 24 hours (soft cure) but ideally for 72 hours (hard cure).

Carefully remove the arrangements from the molds. Drill and insert the eye pins to the top of each arrangement. Hang using invisible line.


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Metal and Lace Party Tray

Mon, 07/02/2018 - 07:00

Make a metal and lace party tray for your shabby chic home.  This gorgeous tray is a mix of industrial galvanized metal with the romantic feel of lace.  Perfect for parties or even your home decor.  I used white lace but you can customize this one with laces of different colors as well.

Supplies needed to make this metal and lace party tray:

Start by cutting your lace to size for the bottom of your tray.  I left a decorative edge on one end.

Then use the Ultra Seal Multi-Purpose Sealer / Glue to glue the lace to the bottom of your tray.  Allow this to dry completely.

Go over the top with the sealer with a heavy coat once dry.  Then allow this top coat to dry completely before continuing.

Once dry, start measuring and mixing your EnviroTex Lite Pour-On High Gloss Finish.

Be sure to use the two cup mixing procedure that is described in the package instructions.  You will also need to wear gloves and follow all safety precautions.

Once completely mixed, pour over the entire surface of your tray.  Allow bubbles to rise to the top and pop them according to the package directions.  You can blow on them or even use a torch to pop them.  I find it helpful to run my stir stick over the lace to release the surface tension and help the bubbles rise.  There are several methods to pop bubbles and you can use any of those.  Then allow to cure in a place where the tray can be level.

Once cured, you have a party tray that you can use over and over again!  Serve up breakfast on the porch or drinks for a crowd.

Be sure to make a metal and lace party tray for your home!  This project is great is you love a little industrial with a little shabby chic mixed in!

This is a fun project that you can customize to your needs!



Summer Boredom Busters for Kids

Fri, 06/29/2018 - 07:00

Summer is an amazing time of year, but since the school year has come to an end, the summer entertainment must begin! Whether it’s a rainy day outside or the kids just plain need something to do that will capture their attention for a longer period of time, we’ve got the perfect Summer Boredom Busters for you. These will be sure to keep them busy!

DIY Melted Crayon Hearts | Pretty Handy Girl

Paper Bag Pinatas | Somewhat Simple

DIY Boredom Buster Jar with Printables | Love The Day

Indoor & Outdoor Scavenger Hunt | The Scrap Shoppe

Mermaid Slime | Juggling Act Mama

Veggie Painting | Spaceships and Laser Beams

Crab Kids Craft | Oh My Creative

Simple Paper Craft Ideas | Scattered Thoughts of a Crafty Mom

Exploding Milk Experiment | Mess for Less

Woven Paper Angelfish Craft for Kids | Buggy and Buddy


Poured Resin Marble Coasters

Wed, 06/27/2018 - 07:00

Poured resin is so much fun to work with and today I am going to show you how to make marble coasters with this technique.  All you need is some resin and wood coasters to get started on a project you will love and that will match your home decor perfectly.

Supplies needed to make these marble coasters:


I find that sealing a wood surface before pouring helps to minimize bubbles.  In this case, you can paint the surface of the coasters or use a clear sealer.  Allow that to dry completely before continuing.

Once dry, measure your EnviroTex Lite® Pour On High Gloss Finish carefully.  You want equal parts of each.  Mix them using two mixing cups according to the package directions.  Be sure to follow all safety instructions as well including wear gloves when dealing with resin.  Then divide your mixed resin into small measuring cups and add pigment.  I mixed white, yellow, some green with blue, and some blue with green.

I like adding pouring projects like this to an empty cardboard box.  That allows me to work without worrying about drips.  Use extra measuring cups to raise the coasters off of the box bottom.

Then start randomly pouring your resin.  I did a concentric circle method but I made each one different.

Then pick up each coaster and move it around until the entire surface is covered.  You can also use your stir stick to push the resin into corners and edges.  Add back to the measuring cups in the box.  Pop any bubbles that come to the surface according to the package directions.  You may have to come back after 20 – 30 minutes to remove any drips from the sides if you have quite a bit of excess resin.

Allow your coasters to cure overnight.  I then used a liquid leafing product or another craft paint to finish off the sides.

All that is left after they dry is to enjoy your fun marble coasters!

Mix and match any colors that you like and that match your home decor.  It is fun to see the differences in the designs and what colors come through from mixing.

These colors remind me of the sea and are so perfect for summer.  This technique is great for a ton of surfaces and it is so easy to do!

Will you be making marble coasters or any other marbled projects?

You are sure to love the results of this fun technique!