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by ETI
Updated: 2 hours 48 min ago

Sea Horse Treasures with EasySculpt® Clay.

Tue, 09/13/2016 - 07:00
Karen Bearse here today.  I have been playing with EasySculpt® Epoxy Molding Clay!  I used a few of the molds I had made previously with Silicone Putty.

Materials:EasySculpt® Epoxy Molding ClayEasyMold™ Silicone PuttyObjects for moldGlitter glassGlitterDecoupageGessoMetallic Luster by DecoArt, Copper KettleZot by ThermowebSandpaper
EasyMold™ Silicone Putty Directions:First, start by making the mold.  Figure out how much putty you will need to create your mold.  Work on 1 mold at a time.  Read product directions for more information.
Pinch off equal parts of Silicone Putty, part A and B and then, knead the putty together for 1 minute or until you have a uniform purple color.  Shape putty to the size and shape you need so there is enough to push your piece into the putty.  Place on a craft sheet and gently push your original item into the putty.  Let set for 25 minutes and remove the original object.  To use with resin the mold must cure for 24 hours.  If you are making a mold using a word, make sure you reverse the word before pushing it into putty so your word is in reverse.i
To prep the clay, mix equal parts of A and B.  Knead until the clay is a uniform color.  The clay will be quite sticky but can be used for molds right away.  
For my seahorse, I put some glitter glass & micro beads in the mold first & then pushed the clay into the mold.

I pulled it out of the mold after 4 hours & trimmed the edges. If the clay is too hard to trim simply sand the edges. The clay will be fully set in 24 hours.

Now, what do I do with a clay seahorse?  Well first I needed some color but I didn't want to cover up the glitter and beads so I put a thin layer of decoupage glue over those areas.  Then, any paint that got on this area could be easily wiped off.  I covered the clay in gesso which creates a foundation for paint to adhere and will give me a shabby vintage look.  Again, staying clear of the beaded areas, and wiping off any gesso that got on them.  Once the gesso is dry, I use my finger to add the Metallic Luster.  Using fingers or a firm piece of foam helps keep the color from going in the depressions. Now my piece has an old relic look.  I did end up covering the glass glitter.  So in hind sight, next time I would add a lot more in a more condensed way so it would be easier to protect.

This is so cool!  I love how my piece looks like I could have found it in an ancient archeological dig except I just made it!!!  This technique would be great to use with shells, cherubs, mermaids.... the possibilities are endless.  I decided to make a quick home decor piece.  
It may end up in my bathroom as a toothbrush holder but for now, it is a pencil holder.  I had bought this $3 tin from Target in the dollar bin and it was the perfect home for my treasure.  Sometimes gluing these pieces can be difficult but I found a trick.
I started by placing a large Zot by Thermoweb or glue dot in the middle of the seahorse.  Before I placed it on the tin I covered the area around the Zot with a nice coat of Glossy Accents (a strong wet glue).  After placing the seahorse clean off excess glue with a wet paint brush.  Tie a piece of ribbon or fabric around the seahorse and the cup to hold it together strongly while the glue sets.
Here is a finished project using my new vintage treasure!  I am excited to make more pieces and adhere them to frames, mirrors, journal covers or art journal pages.

Dinosaur Magnets Using FastCast™

Thu, 09/08/2016 - 07:00
Good morning, Donna Budzynski here with you today  and I would like to share with you a really fun project using FastCast! This is a new product and you are going to LOVE it!!!
With school starting, you know those kids will have plenty of pictures to hang on the refrigerator and I am going to show you a fun way to hang them!
                             We are going to make some dinosaur magnets!
Let's get started!
Materials:Fast Cast™Mixing CupsStir StickMat or Newspaper (to cover work area)Mold-I used dinosaursMagnetsPower Tac AdhesiveAcrylic Paint - AmericanaVarnishSandpaper
1. Gather all materials and cover work area.

2. Pour equal amounts of part A and part B of FastCast™.
3. Working fast as this starts setting in just 2 minutes.  Pour part A into part B and stir for 30 seconds scraping sides and bottom.  Now pour all back into part A cup and stir for an additional 30 seconds.4. Pour into mold

5. Wait 10 minutes.  Yes, it is that fast!  Amazing!
Take out of the mold. Lightly sand edges of the backside.

6. Paint and varnish.
7. Adhere magnets.

8. Hang them up and enjoy!

The details were picked up like magic from the mold!

Another option for this is....for children birthday parties, you could make one or two for each child to paint and bring home for there own magnets.  Prize and a project all rolled into one!

Tell me what you think, I would love to know!

Thanks for stopping by!
Donna Budzynski

Lace Monogram with EnviroTex Lite

Tue, 09/06/2016 - 07:00
Hello Resin Lovers, Beth here on the blog today sharing another great project, a Lace Monogram!  I always have an eye out for objects that I can add dimensional items and resin to, so on a recent trip to the craft store I had a major score with this monogram W!

Materials:EnviroTex Lite®Monogram letter Lace, trims, assortedButtons, assortedWhite craft gluePaintbrushScissors
Instructions:STEP ONE: I always seal the interior and exterior edges of found objects with glue before filling with resin.  This will seal any small cracks that resin could seep out of and ruin your project.
STEP TWO:  I hoard collect interesting lace and trims, so in an effort to use up all those bits and pieces that I just can't throw away, I used them to fill up the inside of my monogram.  Secure the lace and buttons to the base with a matte medium sealer.  
STEP THREE:  Then apply several heavy coats of matte medium to the top of the lace and the buttons to seal them in place.  This will prevent the resin from penetrating the lace and changing the color.
STEP FOUR:  Mix equal parts of EnviroTex Lite® Resin and Hardener in mixing cup. Stir with a wooden craft stick for 2 minutes. 
 Pour the resin into a second mixing cup and stir with a wooden craft stick for another minute.  Follow all the manufacturer's DIRECTIONS for best results.
STEP FIVE:  Find a level spot that is out of the way and line surface with waxed paper or freezer paper.  Carefully pour resin into the mold.  I always stop just shy of the top edge of my project to give the resin room to self-level and settle.
STEP SIX:  Remove any bubbles that rise to the surface with a heat source, like a lighter.  Repeating as needed until the resin is set.
Here is a detailed shot of the layers of lace and buttons!   I love how this Lace Monogram turned out and can't wait to hang it on my front door!
Take a look around the next time you are the craft store for items that can be altered with resin!  Share your resin projects on the Resin Crafts FB Page.
Thanks for stopping by!  -Beth

Re-purposed Wall Art with EnviroTex Lite® Resin

Thu, 09/01/2016 - 07:00
I posted a few weeks ago a piece of art created and then coated in Envirotex Lite®.  Today I am sharing her sister with a few changes!
Materials:EnviroTex Lite®Canvas (got this from a store changing decor)Ann Butler Designs Iridescent PaintMono Printed PapersTombow Mono GlueDreamweaver Stencil Paste (Matte Black)Acrylic Paint 

Find a piece to up-cycle.

Make a bunch of mono prints using a gelatin plate of your choice.  Tear them into strips.
Starting at the top of the canvas, layer the strips!  I used the Tombow glue to attach all paper strips.
Continue to work down the canvas.  I was going for a sunset look so I layered accordingly.
I flipped the canvas upside down and started applying greens for the landscape.
After the canvas was covered I allowed it to dry.

I then painted a rough tree outline with branches flowing more than stiff.The texture was added using the stencil paste and a palette knife.

Once dry I did the dry brush of earthy colors over the paste and let dry.  I wanted a little shimmer so I used Iridescents.
THE MAGIC HAPPENS - Enter EnviroTex Lite® Pour On Resin!!!
I mixed the resin in small batches to insure complete mixing for the best result!  Measure out equal amounts of the EnviroTex Lite® resin and hardener.
Mix together and stir for 2 minutes.  Pour into a second cup and stir for 1 minute.

I do this in the garage with a tarp covering anything I don't want resin to get dripped on and leave a permanent spot.  I prop the art on some cups so the art does not stick to the table.

Once dry this is ready to hang in it's new home!  This one goes to Cline Dental in Springfield, MO!Not yet on the wall but in the room!
Hope you enjoyed the second installment of Wall Art with EviroTex Lite® Resin!

Catchall Tray with EasyCast®

Tue, 08/30/2016 - 07:00
Good morning everyone.  Steph Ackerman here today and I want to share how I created this tray for my husband.  He has no spot for his left-over coins so I thought I'd create a tray just for him.  I wanted to include some gears and washers that I found (to give it a more masculine feel), so I used EasyCast® Clear Casting Epoxy  to seal them into the tray.


Project Instructions:
To begin, mix equal parts EasyCast® Clear Casting Epoxy resin and hardener into a mixing cup.  Stir for 2 full minutes to properly mix the products.

Pour into a new mixing cup and stir for another minute.

Prepare a wood tray by painting it 2 - 3 times it with FolkArt Ultra Dye in Turquoise, allowing to dry between each layer.   Once the final layer has completely dried, pour the resin mixture into the tray.  Tilt the tray to coat the entire tray.  Check for bubbles and pop any you might find. 

Place assorted gears and washers into the resin, being sure to pop any bubbles for a smooth finish.  Allow to cure overnight.  This will ensure that the gears and washers are embedded in the resin before moving to the next step.
Mix another batch of resin as described above and pour into the tray.  Again, tilt the tray so the resin covers the entire tray.  Pop any bubbles you might see. 

Since the gears and washers have been allowed to sit overnight, the resin has hardened around them and they do not move when you tilt the tray adding the next layer of resin. 

What do you think?  This is a fun project that would be perfect for anyone on your gift list this year.
Thanks for stopping by today.

Faux Druzy Bracelet

Thu, 08/25/2016 - 07:00
Today we happy to showcase a project by designer Myléne Hillam 
“As seen in Craft Ideas magazine”
Finished Length: 8”
Learn how to create convincing faux druzys with resin and turn them into a bracelet of glittering color to give your Fall outfits an earthy feel.
  • ŸEnviroTex Jewelry Resin
  • ŸJacquard Pearl Ex Pigments: Duo Blue-Green; Duo Green-Yellow; Shimmer Violet; Super Copper; Blue Russet
  • ŸSmall gemstone chips: turquoise, peridot, amethyst, carnelian and mookaite jasper
  • ŸFloracraft Twinklets Diamond Dust
  • ŸMeasuring cups – six
  • ŸWooden stir sticks
  • ŸToothpick
  • Gloves

For gold bracelet:
  • Ÿ2-loop gold bezels 25mm (from loop to loop) - five
  • ŸRectangle gold spacer beads 9x8mm – four
  • ŸGold toggle clasp
  • ŸGold eye pins (4)
  • ŸGold split rings (2)

For silver bracelet:
  • ŸNunn Design Patera Bracelet Large Circle – Antique Silver
  • ŸFoam mounting tape

  • ŸFlat nose pliers
  • ŸRound nose pliers
  • ŸFlush cutters
  • ŸSplit ring pliers

Note: Photos and instructions show how to make the turquoise druzy in the gold bezel.  If working with Nunn Design Patera bracelet, attach a piece of foam mounting to the back of each bezel to keep it flat whilst you are working.  One teaspoon (5ml) of mixed resin is enough to make both the gold and silver bracelets.
Pour ½ teaspoon (2.5ml) of each part of the Envirotex Jewelry Resin into a measuring cup and mix according to the package instructions.
Divide the mixed resin between 5 cups. Use a wooden stir stick to add a different color of Pearl Ex to each cup.
Stir each one until the Pearl Ex powder is completely mixed into the resin.
Using a different gemstone in each bezel, fill each one with enough chips to cover the bottom.
Tip the gemstone chips into the cup of corresponding colored resin.Mix them into the resin to coat them completely.
Drag the bead chips up the side of the cup, allowing the resin to drain back into the bottom of the cup. Use the stir stick to spoon the chips into the bezel, one at a time, with the smallest amount of resin possible. This will help the chips keep their jagged shapes and give a more realistic look to the finished druzys.
Arrange them so that they fully cover the bottom of the bezel. If there are any gaps, cover the gap with a small amount of resin.
Using a clean stir stick, scoop the Diamond Dust out of the jar and sprinkle over the bead chips generously to create the druzy sparkle effect.
Use a toothpick to press the Diamond Dust into the resin.
Set the bezels aside to cure for 12 hours.
String the spacer beads on the eye pins. 

Bend them at a 90° angle to the spacer bead.Trim the eye pins to 7/16”.
Turn a simple loop on each one. These need to be large enough to accommodate the bezel loops.

Lay the faux druzys out in your preferred order and place a spacer component in between each pair. Connect them together by opening the eye pin loops and hooking them onto the bezel loops.
Use the split ring pliers to open a split ring and hook on one half of the clasp and the loop of one end of the bracelet. Attach the second half of the clasp to the other end of the bracelet with the other split ring.
No assembly is required for the Nunn Design Patera Bracelet. Just remove the foam mounting tape and wear.

Vintage Map Necklace With EnviroTex Lite®

Tue, 08/23/2016 - 07:00
Today I would like to share with you how to make a necklace using a vintage map and EnviroTex Lite®
  • EnviroTex Lite®
  • Measuring Cups
  • Stir Stick
  • Vintage Map
  • Bezel & Necklace
  • Heart Gem-Optional
  • Scissors
  • Matte Medium or Mod Podge
  • Lighter
  1. Gather all materials needed.

2. Take a bezel and lay it over the area to be used.  Draw an outline of the bezel and cut out.

3. Trim until it fits nicely inside the bezel.

 4. Apply Matte Medium or Mod Podge in the bezel and add the vintage map on top.  Press down and make sure map has no air bubbles.  Apply more medium over the top to assure map is down completely with no air pockets.  Adhere a heart gem.  Set aside to dry. 

5. Pour EnviroTex Lite® Resin and hardener evenly into cups.  Pour one into the other scraping sides.  Stir for 2 minutes and pour into a new mixing cup, scraping the sides and stir for 1 additional minute.
6. Pour EnviroTex Lite® into the bezel. Using a lighter go over the top to take out any bubbles that may occur. Set aside till dry.  Enjoy!

I sure hope you give this a try! If you do, we would LOVE to see it!Thanks for stopping by the blog today!
Donna Budzynski

DIY: Creating Knobs with FastCast™ Resin

Thu, 08/18/2016 - 07:00
Today I am going to share how easy it is to make "Knobs" using our newest product FastCast™ . This past Tuesday, I created knob molds using Silicone can check out that post by clicking here.Materials:
  • FastCast™ 
  • Molds
  • Mixing cups 
  • Stir sticks
  • Screws, for the back of the knobs
  • Cardboard
  • Pliers
Project Instructions: 
Before mixing FastCast™, cut 2 small pieces of cardboard, poke a hole into the center and place the screw for the knob through layering the cardboard.  Test it on your mold for depth.
Measure our equal parts of A and B.  Stir for 30 seconds.  Then, pour into a second mixing cup and stir for another 30 seconds.
Pour immediately into molds.
as FastCast™ sets in 10 minutes, so you want to pour as soon as you have it mixed.
Place the prepared screw into the center of the mold, using something on either side to keep it at the correct height.  Let set for 10 minutes.
Using the pliers to hold the screw in place, remove the knob.  
Attach the knob in place...
These are quick and easy to create with FastCast™.  
I left these white to show how quick and easy it is to create knobs, although FastCast™ can be painted if a color is desired.

Creating Molds for Knobs with Silicone Putty

Tue, 08/16/2016 - 07:00
Last week we featured our newest product FastCast™, which is a two-component clear urethane casting resin, which turns white once set.  FastCast™ sets to a hard cast in approximately 10 minutes at 70°F.   You can check out that post by clicking here.Today I am going to show how to create a mold for knobs using Silicone Putty.  Be sure to check back on Thursday, as I will show you how to make some knobs using these molds and FastCast™.
Here is how to create a mold:
Start with Silicone Putty
Measure out two equal balls of part A and B
 Mix them together 
Until you have a uniform color.

Push desired knob into the prepared Silicone Putty...

Let set for 20 minutes.

Remove the knob from the Silicone Putty.  That is how easy it is to create a mold that you will be able to use over and over again.

FastCast™ is now available!

Thu, 08/11/2016 - 07:00
We are happy to announce that our newest product FastCast™, is now available!

FastCast™ is a two-component clear urethane casting resin, which turns white once set.  It is odorless and easy to use with a 1 to 1 ratio.  It is ideal for casting, quick prototyping, miniatures, models, taxidermy and more.  FastCast™ sets to a hard cast in approximately 10 minutes at 70°F.  Once cured, FastCast™ can be drilled, sanded, shaped and painted.

Here is how easy FastCast is to work with:

Measure out equal parts of parts A and B.

Stir together for 30 seconds.Pour into a second mixing cup and mix for another 30 seconds.  This additional step insures a complete and thorough mix.   Then, immediately pour into your mold.  As FastCast™ begins cure , the mixed solution with heat up and begin to turn a dull white.  Once cast (about 10 minutes) the piece will become bright white in color.
Then simply demold and your piece is ready to be used.Check back next week as I will share how-to create some molds for drawer pulls and how-to cast them with FastCast™!

Mixed Media Canvas with EasyCast®

Tue, 08/09/2016 - 07:00
Today we are happy to have designer Steph Ackerman with an adventurous canvas to share.  Have you ever thought of using EasyCast® Clear Casting Epoxy to create a background for your canvas?  Well, that is just what I've done.

Project Instructions:
To begin, mix equal parts EasyCast® Clear Casting Epoxy resin and hardener.  Stir for 2 full minutes to properly mix the products.

Then pour into a new container and stir for another minute.

Then I poured the resin randomly over a 4"x4" canvas, using the stir stick to move the resin around.  Allow to dry at least 12 hours before decorating.

To add color I used a baby wipe to "paint "Castin Craft Opaque Pigments in red, yellow and blue across the canvas.  I also used  Castin Craft Transparent Dye in green for a little transparent effect.  I love how the resin picked up the colors and show off it's 3 dimensional effect.

For embellishments, I used a chipboard flower that I also colored with  Castin' Craft Opaque Pigments in yellow and red.  The bird, the nest and leaves were created with Makin's Clay, assorted molds and dies.

Adventurous, was stamped onto a wood tag and all elements were adhered to the canvas with Beacon 3-in-1 Advanced Craft Glue.

What do you think?  Is this something you would try? 

Create a Spoon Bowl with EasySculpt®

Thu, 08/04/2016 - 07:00
Have you ever even heard of a "Spoon Bowl"? It is really rather cool...and today designer Myléne Hillam is going to share how to create one using EasySculpt® Epoxy Modeling Clay!

  • EasySculpt® Epoxy Modeling Clay
  • Design Master Super Silver spray paint
  • Talcum powder
  • Firm fitting latex gloves
  • 12 cavity silicone spoon mold
  • Bowl to use as a mold
  • Stanley knife

Dust the bowl liberally with Talcum Powder. This will act as a release agent.
Before beginning, put on your gloves – EasySculpt will be sticky whilst you are working with it. Measure out equal quantities of EasySculpt Parts A and B, the size of large marbles.
Place the EasySculpt into a spoon cavity and push it out to the edges. Press it firmly into the bottom of the mold so that you have formed complete spoons.
To neaten the edges of the spoon, use you finger to roll the edge back into the clay. Mix more EasySculpt to fill all twelve spoons.
Lightly dust the surface of each spoon and then demold the first spoon.
Position the spoon at the 12 o’clock position in the bowl with the handle in the center of the bowl. Demold three more spoons and place them at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock.
Demold the remaining spoons and position them evenly between the first four spoons leaving an open circle in the middle of the bowl. Adjust them so that the handles abut. Continue to adjust the handles of the spoons until the clay firms up. Set the bowl aside for 24 hours to cure.
Carefully remove the spoon bowl from the dish, releasing one spoon at a time. Use the knife to trim away any rough edges. Spray the inside and the outside of the bowl with silver spray paint and allow it to dry.
Display your beautiful Spoon Bowl and enjoy!!

Resin Paper Night Light With EnviroTex Lite®

Tue, 08/02/2016 - 07:00
Today I am going to share with you how to make resin paper usingEnviroTex Lite® so that you can make your own night light!

  • EnviroTex Lite® 
  • Nightlight, Hobby Lobby
  • Mixing cups 
  • Stir sticks
  • Sponge
  • Gloves
  • Garbage bag
  • Tape
  • Paper of choice
  • Scissors

Project Instructions:
  • Gather all supplies.
  • Cover area with a plastic garbage bag. Tape down to make as flat as possible.
  • Pour equal amount of resin and hardener
  •  Pour resin into hardener and stir for 2 minutes. Now pour it back into a clean measuring cup making sure to scrape sides and stir for 1 more minute.
  •  Put your gloves on.
  • Apply a coat of EnviroTex Lite® onto the front of paper using the sponge.

  • Flip the paper over and apply a coat of the resin onto the back side.

  • Flip paper back to front and smooth out any rough areas. Make sure it is completely covered.

  • Let dry 12-24 hours depending on your surroundings. It is very dry here in Colorado.
  • You can see here it is somewhat transparent.

  •  Pull the template off of night light and cut out.

  •  Adhere cut out the resin paper to night light base. (it is already sticky, no adhesive needed)
Plugged in and ready to go!

 Look how pretty it looks all lighted up!

Thanks for stopping by the blog today! 
I hope you enjoyed today's project!
Donna Budzynski

ETI Resin is Blog Hopping with Gel Press

Thu, 07/28/2016 - 23:00
Welcome to the ETI/Gel Press Blog Hop. The designers for both companies have been creating wonderful projects. Please leave a comment on EACH blog. Tell us on the Gel Press blog and on our blog (Resin Crafts) as to which projects you found most interesting or inspiring. Now let's get started:
ETI Blog (you are here)KathyAnn ButlerCindiBethCyndiDonnaLeaKarenKeriLarissaSandeePaulaAnnTammy
Gel Press
One winner will be picked, at random, Sunday, July 31, 2016, at 10pm CST. 

The winner will get both Petite sets of Gel Press plates and ETI Jewelry Resin! Hop now through Sunday! Winner must be 18 or over and live in the USA. Good Luck!

Bottle Cap Table Top with EnviroTex Lite®

Tue, 07/26/2016 - 07:00
Today we have a multi-layered bottle cap table top project from Hillary Stephens using EnviroTex Lite® pour on coating.

  • EnviroTex Lite® 
  • Table base
  • Bottle caps, must be clean and dry; plan on 100 caps per square foot.
  • Craft glue (that dries clear)
  • Mixing cups 
  • Stir sticks
  • Foam or sponge craft brushes
  • Propane torch or lighter
  • Gloves and eye protection
  • Painter tape (optional)
  • Sand paper (optional)
  • Alcohol or Acetone (optional)
Project Instructions:  
  • If project base is made of wood, seal wood with a thin layer of white glue or paint the surface and let dry.  The thin layer will seal the air pockets of the wood and prevent air from releasing bubbles in the thick layers of the EnviroTex Lite®.  If you choose to use the EnviroTex Lite® as the thin sealing layer, apply with a sponge brush.  Don't use the propane torch on this thin layer of the EnviroTex Lite®.  DO use the propane torch on subsequent layers.
  • Projects with a permanent rim that contains the coating are most easy.  Temporary borders may be created by affixing painters masking tape to sides of project, allowing tape to stick up and create a dam.  Pour a layer of the EnviroTex Lite®.  Remove the tape 8‐10 hours later and apply new tape for each layer.  The tape will NOT result in a straight, smooth edge.  For the final layer, we recommend sanding the sharp edge with sandpaper and pouring the EnviroTex Lite® on the top and allowing coating to flow over the side of the project; this layer will conceal all sanding marks and will make the sides of the project clear and smooth.  Drips may be sanded from the underside later. Slats of wood coated with two layers of paste wax can also be used for temporary border; seams of the wood slats must be taped to prevent coating from flowing and dripping through seams.
  • Glue the bottle caps in place with white glue; fill ruffled area of bottle cap with glue to prevent air from escaping from underneath.  Allow glue to dry overnight.  Caps must be glued in place because cap can lift and float.
  • Apply the first of several layers of the EnviroTex Lite®; use 6 ounces of pour on coating for every 12 square inches.  Most bottle cap projects will require 3‐5 layers of 6 ounce volume; allow 8 hours curing time between layers.  Bubbles will form around the sides of the cap, swish a brush around the cap to encourage the bubbles to release and rise.
  • Coating may be sanded between layers but it's not necessary. If surface is sanded, wipe with alcohol or acetone and a clean rag to remove dust particles.  If surface is sanded it must be re‐coated.

TIPS on BLENDING COATING: always measure equal parts of resin and hardener. Blend in bucket with (only) a wood paint stick for two minutes, mixing vigorously while scraping sides and bottom of bucket. Then pour coating into a new, clean bucket and blend for another minute. Thorough blending is achieved by the above mixing method only! Discard mixing stick. Pour coating onto project immediately. Use propane torch to remove bubbles from coating. You may need to use propane torch several times during a forty five
minute period following application. Important: read all instructions included in kit.

TIPS on BLENDING COATING: Always measure equal parts of resin and hardener. 

Blend  with a wood paint stick for two minutes, mixing vigorously while scraping sides and bottom of the mixing cup. 

Then pour coating into a new, clean mixing cup and blend for another minute. Thorough blending is achieved by the above mixing method only! Discard mixing stick. Pour coating onto project immediately.  Use the propane torch to remove bubbles from the coating. You may need to use the propane torch several times during a forty-five minute period, following the application. Important: read all instructions included in the kit.

Wood Plate with Paper or Fabric and EnviroTex Lite®

Thu, 07/21/2016 - 07:00
Today we have a multi‐layer home decor project using EnviroTex Lite® Pour On Coating and assorted papers or fabric motifs created by Hillary Stephens.

  • EnviroTex Lite® 
  • Wood plate
  • Paper or fabric of choice
  • Craft glue (that dries clear)
  • Scissors
  • Mixing cups 
  • Stir sticks
  • Foam or sponge craft brushes
  • Propane torch or lighter
  • Gloves and eye protection
  • Sand paper (optional)
  • Alcohol or Acetone (optional)
Project Instructions:  
  • NOTE: If project base is made of wood, stain and then seal wood with a thin layer of white glue or paint the surface and let dry. The thin layer will seal the air pockets of the wood and prevent air from releasing bubbles in the thick layers of EnviroTex Lite®.  If you choose to use EnviroTex Lite® as the thin sealing layer, apply with a sponge brush. Don't use the propane torch on this thin layer of EnviroTex Lite®.  DO use the propane torch on subsequent layers to remove bubbles.
  • Mount paper or fabric patches to surface of table using white glue that dries clear. Paper must be smoothed onto surface and all air bubbles pressed from beneath the paper.  Allow glue to dry.  Apply TWO layers of white glue over the top of paper or fabric, allowing each layer to dry thoroughly.  Apply glue with sponge brush.  The glue creates a protective layer to prevent EnviroTex Lite® from being absorbed and darkening paper.  Allow final layer of glue to dry over night.
  • Apply first of two layers of Envirotex Lite; use recommended coverage amounts found on instruction page.  For instance, one half gallon will cover 16 sq. feet 1/16th to 1/8th inch thick.  Many projects will require two layers, allow 8 hours between layers.  Coating may be sanded between layers but it's not necessary.  If surface is sanded, wipe with alcohol or acetone and a clean rag to remove dust particles. If surface is sanded it must be re‐coated.

IPS on BLENDING COATING: Always measure equal parts of resin and hardener. 

Blend  with a wood paint stick for two minutes, mixing vigorously while scraping sides and bottom of bucket. 

Then pour coating into a new, clean mixing cup and blend for another minute. Thorough blending is achieved by the above mixing method only! Discard mixing stick. Pour coating onto project immediately. Use propane torch to remove bubbles from coating. You may need to use propane torch several times during a forty-five minute period following application. Important: read all instructions included in kit.

EasySculpt® Fish Decor

Tue, 07/19/2016 - 07:00

I am so excited to share my project with you. I painted a fish a few weeks ago and covered it with EnviroTex Lite®. (You can see it here if you missed it)
I thought to myself, hmm.... I wonder if I could sculpt one using Easy Sculpt®
Guess What?!! 
I did and here is how.Materials:
  • Easy Sculpt®
  • Rubber Gloves-couple pairs
  • Teflon Mat
  • Styrofoam Balls
  • Vegtable oil or Talc Powder
  • Gesso
  • Acrylic Paint - I used DecoArt Media 
  • Brushes
  • Wood Panel
  • Glue-Power Tac
  • Varnish

Gather all supplies and cover working area with a non stick mat.

Cut Styrofoam ball in half for body of fish.

I am showing this to show you what NOT to do! I usally make an armature with foil, I Quickly learned that it doesn't play well with Easy Sculpt®!

Take equal amounts of Easy Sculpt A & B and mix them thoroughly wearing your gloves. I used vegtable oil on my gloves to help with the Easy Sculpt from getting to sticky on my gloves. In order for you to be able to sculpt you will need to wait a bit before it gets to sculpting stage. Follow manufacuter directions.

Start to sculpt your fish with the body and then move to lips. I did the tail next. Make a top and bottom fin and a side fin. Notice how I propped up the fins to get the waves in them.

I attached the top and bottom fin to the fish. Once happy with it, I let it dry overnight.

The next day I mixed equal amounts of A & B again so that I could attach the side fin. I also added a few more details. I propped up the fin till it was dry.

Gesso the board a the fish, I do this so that the paint has something to stick to.

Paint fish to your liking. Have fun with it!

I lightly sketched out on the board some plants.

Once everything is dry. Use glue to attach to board.

Seal with a varnish and enjoy!

I absolutly LOVE how this piece turned out and I hope you enjoyed it also. Any eagle eyes out there? Did you notice that I clipped off the top long fins. I felt it was to much. 
Thank you for stopping by the blog today!
Donna Budzynski

Mosaic Shard ART with EasyCast®

Thu, 07/14/2016 - 07:00
If you’ve always wanted to create glass mosaic art but didn’t want to fuss with all that sharp, broken glass, here’s an easy and fun method of creating your own glass-like mosaic shards using EasyCast® epoxy resin as the “glass” mosaic material.  This project created by Hillary Stephens, will require at least two working sessions: one to make your colored resin pieces and the second session to do the mosaic artwork.  Hillary describes two similar methods of creating a resin mosaic art piece.
  • Castin’ Craft brand EasyCast® Epoxy Resin 16 ounce kit (enough for 11 x 14 piece)
  • Castin’ Craft Transparent Dyes and/or Opaque pigments and/or Jacquard brand Pinata Alcohol Ink
  • A design on paper to use as a pattern 
  • Wood plaque (trays, box lids, table tops and other surfaces may be used)
  • Acrylic craft paint 
  • Plastic sheeting or zip loc bag
  • Mona Lisa brand Metal Leaf Adhesive Size
  • Sharpie brand permanent marker
  • Rubbing alcohol
  • Q-tips
  • Fiskers brand Quick Release Multi Snip tool 
  • Mixing cups 
  • Stir sticks
  • Foam or sponge craft brushes
  • Small disposable drink cups
  • Gloves and eye protection
  • Heat gun or hair dryer
Project Instructions: 
Method #1 Pouring on top of a picture: Find a simple poster or picture that you like. We chose a sunflower design because the flower was bold and didn’t have a lot of small, individual details.  If possible, make photocopies of your design as copies may come in handy later.  Pour each colored epoxy onto the appropriate color of your plastic protected picture.  The epoxy will spread and merge with other colors but don’t be too concerned because you’ll be trimming out the epoxy pieces anyway.  You can combine cups of color to make additional colors.  Let the epoxy dry in place for 10-18 hours.  The longer the epoxy sheet cures the more rigid and difficult it can be to snip into pieces, particularly shapes that are rounded.Method #2 Free form without the picture: Mix about six ounces of EasyCast.  Divide portions into small cups and add between 3-6 drops of dye to each; blend completely. Make as many colors as desired.  You can also combine cups of color to make additional colors.  Pour the epoxy onto the sheet to create the “glass” mosaic material. If desired, allow the colors to blend together on the plastic sheeting to create additional shades.  Let the epoxy dry in place for 10-18 hours.  The longer the epoxy sheet cures the more rigid and difficult it can be to snip into pieces, particularly shapes that are roundedCover your work surface with heavy plastic sheeting.  Tape the picture onto the plastic sheet and cover it with a piece of clear plastic; sandwich like.  Or use a heavy Ziploc bag; seal the picture inside the bag if it fits!
Mix equal amounts of EasyCast® to have about six ounces in total.  Mix together for 2 minutes.  TIP: six ounces of mixed epoxy spread over a one square foot will make the perfect thickness for the epoxy shards.  If the epoxy is too thick it’s much harder to trim into shape.  Too thin a layer will result in shards that lack color density.
Pour into a second cup and stir for another minute.  Pour portions into small cups and add between 3-6 drops of dye to each; blend completely.  Example: if the picture has about four colors, prepare a cup for each color.
Meanwhile, apply two layers of paint to the plaque surface and let dry.  The paint will be the background color and will look like grout in between the mosaic pieces.  Consider using a light colored background especially if the epoxy is transparent.  Dark colored backgrounds may make the transparent colored epoxy much darker.  Scrapbook paper may be used in place of the paint; remember that any design on the paper will show through the shards so take a few pieces of the shards to test with when purchasing paper.  Lacy designs create an interesting visual texture.Peel the epoxy from the plastic sheet.  If the epoxy is transparent, place it on top of the picture and trace the pattern onto the epoxy sheet with the Sharpie marker.  If the epoxy is opaque or solid colored, you’ll need to first cut out the various pieces of your picture and use them as a pattern or template.  This is when one of the photocopies may come in handy!TIP: use a small heat gun or hair dryer to warm the mosaic pieces before trimming! The heat will soften the thin shards of epoxy so that cutting is easier and more accurate.Using the snip tool, trim the pieces from the sheet of epoxy.  Then, if necessary, use alcohol and a Q-tip to remove the marker ink from the edges of the pieces.  The easiest method of keeping track of the individual mosaic pieces is to lay them back onto the picture; use one of the photocopies for this purpose.  Once all major pieces of the mosaic are cut out, you’re ready to assemble the mosaic.Brush two layers of the metal leaf adhesive on the plaque.  Each layer of adhesive will become tacky after a few minutes.  This adhesive will remain tacky over several days so no need to rush; just reapply the adhesive if it seems too dry.  The adhesive is used just to hold the mosaic pieces in place but will not actually glue them to the project surface so be careful if the project must be moved before it’s coated with EasyCast®.  Position the mosaic shards in place on the plaque, leaving a small space between the pieces to create the illusion of grout lines.  Trim and shape the pieces as needed.  Once the major portions of the design are in place on the plaque, then begin to snip additional pieces to fill the background.  Do not allow the edges of the shards to meet or overlap the edges of the plaque; leave a narrow area along the outside edges to achieve a more finished appearance.To complete the mosaic project, place the plaque onto four small disposable drink cups.  Mix another batch of EasyCast.  To determine the amount of EasyCast® needed, refer to the coverage chart printed in the instruction sheet.  Pour EasyCast® over the plaque, starting in the center and pouring in circles until the project is covered with coating.  If necessary, very carefully spread it using a foam craft brush.  Use the heat gun or hair dryer to remove the bubbles in the EasyCast® layer.  Wait two hours and using a clean stir stick, scrape the excess drips from the underside of the plaque and allow the mosaic to cure for about 24 hours.  If mosaic pieces are sticking up through the EasyCast® layer, sand the surface flat and smooth with coarse sandpaper and apply another thick layer of EasyCast®.TIP: Designs for mosaic projects may be found in mosaic or stained glass pattern books, coloring books, and stencil books.

A Forever Flower in a Vase with Resin

Tue, 07/12/2016 - 07:00
While at my sister's house last week, I was looking a vase she had with a single flower in it and thought it would be great display a vase with a single rose in it between our parents wedding photos.  I grabbed a silk rose and my resin to create this forever flower.
  • EasyCast®
  • Silk Rose
  • Bud vase
  • Mixing cups
  • Stir sticks
  • Lighter
  • Tape

Project Instructions: 
 Gather your supplies.
 Mix together equal amounts of the EasyCast® resin and hardener, stir for 2 minutes. 
Pour into a second mixing cup and stir for another minute.
 Pour resin into the vase.  Use a lighter if need to remove any air bubbles.  Please note, that a few bubbles are alright and make the end result look more natural.
 Place the rose in the vase and secure in place with tape.  Let dry for 8 - 12 hours,
 Here is a photo showing the resin dry and looking just like water...
The beauty of this project is that you never have to worry about the water tipping over or the rose dying.

EasySculpt Decorator Keepsake Hearts

Thu, 07/07/2016 - 07:00
Today designer Myléne Hillam shares how to create Decorator Keepsake Hearts using EasySculpt®
  • EasySculpt®
  • Polystyrene heart
  • 2 - 10mm Fuchsia flat back Swarovski crystals
  • Jacquard Piñata Alcohol ink: Passion Purple & Señorita Magenta
  • Ranger Alcohol ink: Eggplant & Butterscotch
  • G-S Hypo Cement
  • Firm fitting latex gloves
  • Clay blade
  • Needle tool
  • Teflon craft sheet
  • Talcum powder
  • Timer

Project Instructions: Before beginning, put on your gloves – EasySculpt will be sticky while you are working with it. Re-powder your gloves as soon as the clay begins to stick to them. Lightly dust the Teflon craft sheet with powder.Scoop out equal quantities about the size of large marbles of EasySculpt Parts A and B. Mix them together following the package instructions.
  1. Shape the EasySculpt into a circle and then place it on the top of the heart.
  2. Ease the clay around the heart. Gently stretch it to reach the bottom and trim away any excess. Smooth the seams out with your gloved fingers.
  3. Use a needle tool to pop any bubbles and smooth the hole out. Smooth out the clay evenly over the heart and set it aside on its back to firm up. Periodically check it during the next 2 hours and smooth out any wrinkles and flat spots, which form.Measure out pea-size quantities of Parts A and B and mix them together. Divide into two balls and flatten them into rough circles. On one, squeeze two drops of Eggplant ink and allow it to sit for a minute for the alcohol to evaporate before mixing it in thoroughly. Re-powder you gloves, flatten it again and add two more drops of alcohol ink. Mix it in as before. Keep re-powdering your gloves as necessary. Once the shade is quite dark, add two drops of Passion Purple alcohol ink and mix it in. Set aside on the Teflon sheet to firm up. Color the other ball with two drops of Señorita Magenta alcohol ink and mix it in. Set the colored EasySculpt aside and set the timer for 25 minutes.
  4. Glue the two crystals on the front of the heart, one in the peak of the heart and one on the opposite side near the bottom.
  5. Pinch a piece off the purple ball and roll it into a thin snake using the heel of your hand.
  6. Create an “S” shaped swirl with the snake, connecting the two crystals together.
  7. Pinch a piece of pink clay and roll it into a snake. Tip: If the EasySculpt is too soft to work with, let it sit for another 10 minutes. If it is too dry to stick to the heart, use a small amount of G-S Hypo Cement to adhere it to the surface. Coil it around the top crystal and form it into an “S” across to the right hand side of the heart. Make another snake; coil it around the bottom crystal and form it into an “S” shape on the left hand side of the heart. Continue adding swirls until you have covered the front of the heart, allowing some of the swirls to roll over the back. Take care as you work not to flatten the swirls. Balance the heart on a small bottle cap so that the clay on the back is elevated off your work surface. Set aside to firm up for 2 hours.
  8. Roll the leftover clay into a 3/16” wide log and slice it into 3/16” pieces.
  9. Roll each of the pieces into a ball.
  10. Form each ball into a teardrop by rolling one side of it between your fingers to form a point.
  11. Press the tip of the needle tool into the center of the teardrop. Form the rest of the log into balls of graduating sizes. Mix a small amount of clay and color it with Butterscotch ink. Set aside and set the timer for 30 minutes. Once firm, form into snakes and line the inside and outside the purple and pink swirls. With the left over clay, create more teardrops and graduated balls. Set aside to firm up for 2 hours.
  12. Use G-S Hypo Cement to attach the teardrops to some of the outer curves of the swirls, butting them up against each other at an angle.
  13. Attach balls of graduated sizes along the inside and outside of other curves. Create swirls on the back of the heart in the same way.