Resin Crafts Blog

Subscribe to Resin Crafts Blog feed Resin Crafts Blog
by ETI
Updated: 2 hours 22 min ago

Bottle Cap Table Top with EnviroTex Lite®

Tue, 07/26/2016 - 07:00
Today we have a multi-layered bottle cap table top project from Hillary Stephens using EnviroTex Lite® pour on coating.


Materials:
  • EnviroTex Lite® 
  • Table base
  • Bottle caps, must be clean and dry; plan on 100 caps per square foot.
  • Craft glue (that dries clear)
  • Mixing cups 
  • Stir sticks
  • Foam or sponge craft brushes
  • Propane torch or lighter
  • Gloves and eye protection
  • Painter tape (optional)
  • Sand paper (optional)
  • Alcohol or Acetone (optional)
Project Instructions:  
  • If project base is made of wood, seal wood with a thin layer of white glue or paint the surface and let dry.  The thin layer will seal the air pockets of the wood and prevent air from releasing bubbles in the thick layers of the EnviroTex Lite®.  If you choose to use the EnviroTex Lite® as the thin sealing layer, apply with a sponge brush.  Don't use the propane torch on this thin layer of the EnviroTex Lite®.  DO use the propane torch on subsequent layers.
     
  • Projects with a permanent rim that contains the coating are most easy.  Temporary borders may be created by affixing painters masking tape to sides of project, allowing tape to stick up and create a dam.  Pour a layer of the EnviroTex Lite®.  Remove the tape 8‐10 hours later and apply new tape for each layer.  The tape will NOT result in a straight, smooth edge.  For the final layer, we recommend sanding the sharp edge with sandpaper and pouring the EnviroTex Lite® on the top and allowing coating to flow over the side of the project; this layer will conceal all sanding marks and will make the sides of the project clear and smooth.  Drips may be sanded from the underside later. Slats of wood coated with two layers of paste wax can also be used for temporary border; seams of the wood slats must be taped to prevent coating from flowing and dripping through seams.
     
  • Glue the bottle caps in place with white glue; fill ruffled area of bottle cap with glue to prevent air from escaping from underneath.  Allow glue to dry overnight.  Caps must be glued in place because cap can lift and float.
     
  • Apply the first of several layers of the EnviroTex Lite®; use 6 ounces of pour on coating for every 12 square inches.  Most bottle cap projects will require 3‐5 layers of 6 ounce volume; allow 8 hours curing time between layers.  Bubbles will form around the sides of the cap, swish a brush around the cap to encourage the bubbles to release and rise.
     
  • Coating may be sanded between layers but it's not necessary. If surface is sanded, wipe with alcohol or acetone and a clean rag to remove dust particles.  If surface is sanded it must be re‐coated.


TIPS on BLENDING COATING: always measure equal parts of resin and hardener. Blend in bucket with (only) a wood paint stick for two minutes, mixing vigorously while scraping sides and bottom of bucket. Then pour coating into a new, clean bucket and blend for another minute. Thorough blending is achieved by the above mixing method only! Discard mixing stick. Pour coating onto project immediately. Use propane torch to remove bubbles from coating. You may need to use propane torch several times during a forty five
minute period following application. Important: read all instructions included in kit.




TIPS on BLENDING COATING: Always measure equal parts of resin and hardener. 



Blend  with a wood paint stick for two minutes, mixing vigorously while scraping sides and bottom of the mixing cup. 



Then pour coating into a new, clean mixing cup and blend for another minute. Thorough blending is achieved by the above mixing method only! Discard mixing stick. Pour coating onto project immediately.  Use the propane torch to remove bubbles from the coating. You may need to use the propane torch several times during a forty-five minute period, following the application. Important: read all instructions included in the kit.

Wood Plate with Paper or Fabric and EnviroTex Lite®

Thu, 07/21/2016 - 07:00
Today we have a multi‐layer home decor project using EnviroTex Lite® Pour On Coating and assorted papers or fabric motifs created by Hillary Stephens.



Materials:
  • EnviroTex Lite® 
  • Wood plate
  • Paper or fabric of choice
  • Craft glue (that dries clear)
  • Scissors
  • Mixing cups 
  • Stir sticks
  • Foam or sponge craft brushes
  • Propane torch or lighter
  • Gloves and eye protection
  • Sand paper (optional)
  • Alcohol or Acetone (optional)
Project Instructions:  
  • NOTE: If project base is made of wood, stain and then seal wood with a thin layer of white glue or paint the surface and let dry. The thin layer will seal the air pockets of the wood and prevent air from releasing bubbles in the thick layers of EnviroTex Lite®.  If you choose to use EnviroTex Lite® as the thin sealing layer, apply with a sponge brush. Don't use the propane torch on this thin layer of EnviroTex Lite®.  DO use the propane torch on subsequent layers to remove bubbles.
     
  • Mount paper or fabric patches to surface of table using white glue that dries clear. Paper must be smoothed onto surface and all air bubbles pressed from beneath the paper.  Allow glue to dry.  Apply TWO layers of white glue over the top of paper or fabric, allowing each layer to dry thoroughly.  Apply glue with sponge brush.  The glue creates a protective layer to prevent EnviroTex Lite® from being absorbed and darkening paper.  Allow final layer of glue to dry over night.
     
  • Apply first of two layers of Envirotex Lite; use recommended coverage amounts found on instruction page.  For instance, one half gallon will cover 16 sq. feet 1/16th to 1/8th inch thick.  Many projects will require two layers, allow 8 hours between layers.  Coating may be sanded between layers but it's not necessary.  If surface is sanded, wipe with alcohol or acetone and a clean rag to remove dust particles. If surface is sanded it must be re‐coated.



IPS on BLENDING COATING: Always measure equal parts of resin and hardener. 



Blend  with a wood paint stick for two minutes, mixing vigorously while scraping sides and bottom of bucket. 



Then pour coating into a new, clean mixing cup and blend for another minute. Thorough blending is achieved by the above mixing method only! Discard mixing stick. Pour coating onto project immediately. Use propane torch to remove bubbles from coating. You may need to use propane torch several times during a forty-five minute period following application. Important: read all instructions included in kit.

EasySculpt® Fish Decor

Tue, 07/19/2016 - 07:00

I am so excited to share my project with you. I painted a fish a few weeks ago and covered it with EnviroTex Lite®. (You can see it here if you missed it)
I thought to myself, hmm.... I wonder if I could sculpt one using Easy Sculpt®
Guess What?!! 
I did and here is how.Materials:
  • Easy Sculpt®
  • Rubber Gloves-couple pairs
  • Teflon Mat
  • Styrofoam Balls
  • Vegtable oil or Talc Powder
  • Gesso
  • Acrylic Paint - I used DecoArt Media 
  • Brushes
  • Wood Panel
  • Glue-Power Tac
  • Varnish


Gather all supplies and cover working area with a non stick mat.

Cut Styrofoam ball in half for body of fish.

I am showing this to show you what NOT to do! I usally make an armature with foil, I Quickly learned that it doesn't play well with Easy Sculpt®!


Take equal amounts of Easy Sculpt A & B and mix them thoroughly wearing your gloves. I used vegtable oil on my gloves to help with the Easy Sculpt from getting to sticky on my gloves. In order for you to be able to sculpt you will need to wait a bit before it gets to sculpting stage. Follow manufacuter directions.


Start to sculpt your fish with the body and then move to lips. I did the tail next. Make a top and bottom fin and a side fin. Notice how I propped up the fins to get the waves in them.


I attached the top and bottom fin to the fish. Once happy with it, I let it dry overnight.


The next day I mixed equal amounts of A & B again so that I could attach the side fin. I also added a few more details. I propped up the fin till it was dry.

Gesso the board a the fish, I do this so that the paint has something to stick to.

Paint fish to your liking. Have fun with it!

I lightly sketched out on the board some plants.


Once everything is dry. Use glue to attach to board.


Seal with a varnish and enjoy!



I absolutly LOVE how this piece turned out and I hope you enjoyed it also. Any eagle eyes out there? Did you notice that I clipped off the top long fins. I felt it was to much. 
Thank you for stopping by the blog today!
Donna Budzynski

Mosaic Shard ART with EasyCast®

Thu, 07/14/2016 - 07:00
If you’ve always wanted to create glass mosaic art but didn’t want to fuss with all that sharp, broken glass, here’s an easy and fun method of creating your own glass-like mosaic shards using EasyCast® epoxy resin as the “glass” mosaic material.  This project created by Hillary Stephens, will require at least two working sessions: one to make your colored resin pieces and the second session to do the mosaic artwork.  Hillary describes two similar methods of creating a resin mosaic art piece.
Materials:
  • Castin’ Craft brand EasyCast® Epoxy Resin 16 ounce kit (enough for 11 x 14 piece)
  • Castin’ Craft Transparent Dyes and/or Opaque pigments and/or Jacquard brand Pinata Alcohol Ink
  • A design on paper to use as a pattern 
  • Wood plaque (trays, box lids, table tops and other surfaces may be used)
  • Acrylic craft paint 
  • Plastic sheeting or zip loc bag
  • Mona Lisa brand Metal Leaf Adhesive Size
  • Sharpie brand permanent marker
  • Rubbing alcohol
  • Q-tips
  • Fiskers brand Quick Release Multi Snip tool 
  • Mixing cups 
  • Stir sticks
  • Foam or sponge craft brushes
  • Small disposable drink cups
  • Gloves and eye protection
  • Heat gun or hair dryer
Project Instructions: 
Method #1 Pouring on top of a picture: Find a simple poster or picture that you like. We chose a sunflower design because the flower was bold and didn’t have a lot of small, individual details.  If possible, make photocopies of your design as copies may come in handy later.  Pour each colored epoxy onto the appropriate color of your plastic protected picture.  The epoxy will spread and merge with other colors but don’t be too concerned because you’ll be trimming out the epoxy pieces anyway.  You can combine cups of color to make additional colors.  Let the epoxy dry in place for 10-18 hours.  The longer the epoxy sheet cures the more rigid and difficult it can be to snip into pieces, particularly shapes that are rounded.Method #2 Free form without the picture: Mix about six ounces of EasyCast.  Divide portions into small cups and add between 3-6 drops of dye to each; blend completely. Make as many colors as desired.  You can also combine cups of color to make additional colors.  Pour the epoxy onto the sheet to create the “glass” mosaic material. If desired, allow the colors to blend together on the plastic sheeting to create additional shades.  Let the epoxy dry in place for 10-18 hours.  The longer the epoxy sheet cures the more rigid and difficult it can be to snip into pieces, particularly shapes that are roundedCover your work surface with heavy plastic sheeting.  Tape the picture onto the plastic sheet and cover it with a piece of clear plastic; sandwich like.  Or use a heavy Ziploc bag; seal the picture inside the bag if it fits!
Mix equal amounts of EasyCast® to have about six ounces in total.  Mix together for 2 minutes.  TIP: six ounces of mixed epoxy spread over a one square foot will make the perfect thickness for the epoxy shards.  If the epoxy is too thick it’s much harder to trim into shape.  Too thin a layer will result in shards that lack color density.
Pour into a second cup and stir for another minute.  Pour portions into small cups and add between 3-6 drops of dye to each; blend completely.  Example: if the picture has about four colors, prepare a cup for each color.
Meanwhile, apply two layers of paint to the plaque surface and let dry.  The paint will be the background color and will look like grout in between the mosaic pieces.  Consider using a light colored background especially if the epoxy is transparent.  Dark colored backgrounds may make the transparent colored epoxy much darker.  Scrapbook paper may be used in place of the paint; remember that any design on the paper will show through the shards so take a few pieces of the shards to test with when purchasing paper.  Lacy designs create an interesting visual texture.Peel the epoxy from the plastic sheet.  If the epoxy is transparent, place it on top of the picture and trace the pattern onto the epoxy sheet with the Sharpie marker.  If the epoxy is opaque or solid colored, you’ll need to first cut out the various pieces of your picture and use them as a pattern or template.  This is when one of the photocopies may come in handy!TIP: use a small heat gun or hair dryer to warm the mosaic pieces before trimming! The heat will soften the thin shards of epoxy so that cutting is easier and more accurate.Using the snip tool, trim the pieces from the sheet of epoxy.  Then, if necessary, use alcohol and a Q-tip to remove the marker ink from the edges of the pieces.  The easiest method of keeping track of the individual mosaic pieces is to lay them back onto the picture; use one of the photocopies for this purpose.  Once all major pieces of the mosaic are cut out, you’re ready to assemble the mosaic.Brush two layers of the metal leaf adhesive on the plaque.  Each layer of adhesive will become tacky after a few minutes.  This adhesive will remain tacky over several days so no need to rush; just reapply the adhesive if it seems too dry.  The adhesive is used just to hold the mosaic pieces in place but will not actually glue them to the project surface so be careful if the project must be moved before it’s coated with EasyCast®.  Position the mosaic shards in place on the plaque, leaving a small space between the pieces to create the illusion of grout lines.  Trim and shape the pieces as needed.  Once the major portions of the design are in place on the plaque, then begin to snip additional pieces to fill the background.  Do not allow the edges of the shards to meet or overlap the edges of the plaque; leave a narrow area along the outside edges to achieve a more finished appearance.To complete the mosaic project, place the plaque onto four small disposable drink cups.  Mix another batch of EasyCast.  To determine the amount of EasyCast® needed, refer to the coverage chart printed in the instruction sheet.  Pour EasyCast® over the plaque, starting in the center and pouring in circles until the project is covered with coating.  If necessary, very carefully spread it using a foam craft brush.  Use the heat gun or hair dryer to remove the bubbles in the EasyCast® layer.  Wait two hours and using a clean stir stick, scrape the excess drips from the underside of the plaque and allow the mosaic to cure for about 24 hours.  If mosaic pieces are sticking up through the EasyCast® layer, sand the surface flat and smooth with coarse sandpaper and apply another thick layer of EasyCast®.TIP: Designs for mosaic projects may be found in mosaic or stained glass pattern books, coloring books, and stencil books.

A Forever Flower in a Vase with Resin

Tue, 07/12/2016 - 07:00
While at my sister's house last week, I was looking a vase she had with a single flower in it and thought it would be great display a vase with a single rose in it between our parents wedding photos.  I grabbed a silk rose and my resin to create this forever flower.
Materials:
  • EasyCast®
  • Silk Rose
  • Bud vase
  • Mixing cups
  • Stir sticks
  • Lighter
  • Tape

Project Instructions: 
 Gather your supplies.
 Mix together equal amounts of the EasyCast® resin and hardener, stir for 2 minutes. 
Pour into a second mixing cup and stir for another minute.
 Pour resin into the vase.  Use a lighter if need to remove any air bubbles.  Please note, that a few bubbles are alright and make the end result look more natural.
 Place the rose in the vase and secure in place with tape.  Let dry for 8 - 12 hours,
 Here is a photo showing the resin dry and looking just like water...
The beauty of this project is that you never have to worry about the water tipping over or the rose dying.

EasySculpt Decorator Keepsake Hearts

Thu, 07/07/2016 - 07:00
Today designer Myléne Hillam shares how to create Decorator Keepsake Hearts using EasySculpt®
Materials:
  • EasySculpt®
  • Polystyrene heart
  • 2 - 10mm Fuchsia flat back Swarovski crystals
  • Jacquard Piñata Alcohol ink: Passion Purple & Señorita Magenta
  • Ranger Alcohol ink: Eggplant & Butterscotch
  • G-S Hypo Cement
  • Firm fitting latex gloves
  • Clay blade
  • Needle tool
  • Teflon craft sheet
  • Talcum powder
  • Timer

Project Instructions: Before beginning, put on your gloves – EasySculpt will be sticky while you are working with it. Re-powder your gloves as soon as the clay begins to stick to them. Lightly dust the Teflon craft sheet with powder.Scoop out equal quantities about the size of large marbles of EasySculpt Parts A and B. Mix them together following the package instructions.
  1. Shape the EasySculpt into a circle and then place it on the top of the heart.
     
  2. Ease the clay around the heart. Gently stretch it to reach the bottom and trim away any excess. Smooth the seams out with your gloved fingers.
     
  3. Use a needle tool to pop any bubbles and smooth the hole out. Smooth out the clay evenly over the heart and set it aside on its back to firm up. Periodically check it during the next 2 hours and smooth out any wrinkles and flat spots, which form.Measure out pea-size quantities of Parts A and B and mix them together. Divide into two balls and flatten them into rough circles. On one, squeeze two drops of Eggplant ink and allow it to sit for a minute for the alcohol to evaporate before mixing it in thoroughly. Re-powder you gloves, flatten it again and add two more drops of alcohol ink. Mix it in as before. Keep re-powdering your gloves as necessary. Once the shade is quite dark, add two drops of Passion Purple alcohol ink and mix it in. Set aside on the Teflon sheet to firm up. Color the other ball with two drops of Señorita Magenta alcohol ink and mix it in. Set the colored EasySculpt aside and set the timer for 25 minutes.
     
  4. Glue the two crystals on the front of the heart, one in the peak of the heart and one on the opposite side near the bottom.
     
  5. Pinch a piece off the purple ball and roll it into a thin snake using the heel of your hand.
     
  6. Create an “S” shaped swirl with the snake, connecting the two crystals together.
     
  7. Pinch a piece of pink clay and roll it into a snake. Tip: If the EasySculpt is too soft to work with, let it sit for another 10 minutes. If it is too dry to stick to the heart, use a small amount of G-S Hypo Cement to adhere it to the surface. Coil it around the top crystal and form it into an “S” across to the right hand side of the heart. Make another snake; coil it around the bottom crystal and form it into an “S” shape on the left hand side of the heart. Continue adding swirls until you have covered the front of the heart, allowing some of the swirls to roll over the back. Take care as you work not to flatten the swirls. Balance the heart on a small bottle cap so that the clay on the back is elevated off your work surface. Set aside to firm up for 2 hours.
     
  8. Roll the leftover clay into a 3/16” wide log and slice it into 3/16” pieces.
     
  9. Roll each of the pieces into a ball.
     
  10. Form each ball into a teardrop by rolling one side of it between your fingers to form a point.
     
  11. Press the tip of the needle tool into the center of the teardrop. Form the rest of the log into balls of graduating sizes. Mix a small amount of clay and color it with Butterscotch ink. Set aside and set the timer for 30 minutes. Once firm, form into snakes and line the inside and outside the purple and pink swirls. With the left over clay, create more teardrops and graduated balls. Set aside to firm up for 2 hours.
     
  12. Use G-S Hypo Cement to attach the teardrops to some of the outer curves of the swirls, butting them up against each other at an angle.
     
  13. Attach balls of graduated sizes along the inside and outside of other curves. Create swirls on the back of the heart in the same way.

Resin Seashell Table Top

Tue, 07/05/2016 - 07:00
Today on the blog is a great way to display those treasures picked up at the beach this summer.  This is a multi-layered project that was created by Hilary
Stephens using EnviroTex Lite®.



Materials:
  • EnviroTex Lite®
  • Sand, shells, pebbles, etc.
  • Craft glue
  • Paint
  • Mixing buckets
  • Stir sticks
  • Propane torch or lighter
  • Craft brush
  • Craft glue
  • Acetone, optional

Project Instructions: 
  • If project base is made of wood, seal wood with a thin layer of white glue or paint the surface and let dry. The thin layer will seal the air pockets of the wood and prevent air from releasing bubbles in the thick layers of Envirotex Lite. If you choose to use Envirotex Lite as the thin sealing layer, apply with a sponge brush. Don't use the propane torch on this thin layer of Envirotex Lite. DO use the propane torch on subsequent layers to remove bubbles.
     
  • If a sand layer is desired, either brush with white glue and sprinkle sand onto table or if thick sand layer is desired, mix one layer of epoxy and add sand directly to bucket at time of mixing. Scrape mixture onto table and spread with clean craft stick. Allow for 12‐15 hours to dry if mixing coating with sand.
     
  • Glue seashells in place with craft glue that dries clear; fill any ruffled area of seashell with glue to prevent air from escaping from underneath. Allow glue to dry overnight. Remember to seal surface of porous shells and starfish so air doesn’t form bubbles in the Envirotex Lite.
     
  • Apply first of several layers of Envirotex Lite; do not use more coating than recommended on coverage amounts found on instruction page. For instance, one half gallon will cover 16 sq. feet 1/16th to 1/8th inch thick. Most seashell projects will require several layers; allow 8 hours between layers. Coating may be sanded between layers but it's not necessary. If surface is sanded, wipe with alcohol or acetone and a clean rag to remove dust particles. If surface is sanded it must be re‐coated.
     
  • If you wish the total depth of the epoxy coating to exceed 1/2 inch, please consider special ordering our EX‐74 coating. It is more UV stable and recommended when wishing to maintain clarity on a deep project. Special order the EX‐74 coating from the following distributors:
     
TIPS on BLENDING COATING: always measure equal parts of resin and hardener. Blend in bucket with (only) a wood paint stick for two minutes, mixing vigorously while scraping sides and bottom of bucket. Then pour coating into a new, clean bucket and blend for another minute. Thorough blending is achieved by the above mixing method only! Discard mixing stick. Pour coating onto project immediately. Use propane torch to remove bubbles from coating. You may need to use propane torch several items during a forty-five minute period following application. Important: read all instructions included in kit.

Child's Room Decor with EnviroTex Lite®

Thu, 06/30/2016 - 07:00
I wanted to make a fun decor piece for my niece's room. Her room is decorated with fish and octopus and I thought this piece would fit right in.
Materials:
  • EnviroTex Lite®
  • Liquid Art Panel
  • Deco Art Media Fluid Acrylics
  • Mixing cups
  • Stir stick
  • Paint brushes
  • Pencil
  • Lighter
  • Straw
  • Glass Glitter 
  • White Glue that dries clear-I used Crafter's Pick-The Ultimate


First I sketched out the placement of the fish and plants.


 Blending the paint and filling the fish in.


Done and ready to add Glitter Glass. Using a thin line of glue onto the areas you would like to cover with Glitter Glass. Pour Glitter Glass over the glue lines and press down softly. Remove extra and pour back into bottle.

 Close up of Glitter Glass on plant.


I gathered all my supplies to mix the EnviroTex Lite®.


  Mix together equal amounts of the EnviroTex Lite® hardener and resin into a cup and stir for 2 minutes.  


Pour into a second cup and stir for another minute.  Pour the resin into the frame. 

 Use a lighter to remove any air bubbles that may rise to the surface.  I also used a straw to blow some out.

All dry and ready to enjoy!
 

I am so thrilled how this turned out! I wish you could see the 3-D effect it has. The Glitter Glass looks fabulous under the resin, they did not lose the shine! Lesson learned...White Glitter Glass does not show up. 

Donna Budzynski

Tic-Tac-Toe Game Board with EnviroTex Lite® Part 2

Tue, 06/28/2016 - 07:00
Last Thursday I shared part 1 of my Tic-Tac-Toe Game Board by showing you how to create the game board itself using EnviroTex Lite®.  Today I am going to show you how to create the X's and O's for the game...again using EnviroTex Lite®. 
 The first set I created I thought the color of the O's blended into the game board to much so I created a second set...

 This set you can see more clearly when playing the game...here is how I created each set...

Materials:
  • EnviroTex Lite®
  • Castin' Craft Opaque Pigment, White
  • Pigments, assorted colors
  • Makin's Clay Texture Sheets, assorted
  • Iridescent Powder, Snow
  • Mixing cups
  • Stir sticks
  • Toothpicks
  • Craft sheet or plastic sheeting
  • Tray
  • Lighter
  • Die cutting machine
  • 2" Alphabet die
  • Scissors
  • Craft brush
  • Craft glue
  • Ultra fine glitter, Iridescent

Project Instructions: 


Mix together equal amounts of the EnviroTex Lite® resin and hardener, stir for 2 minutes.  Pour into a second mixing cup and stir for another minute.
For the first set I chose to use the Castin" Craft Opaque Pigment in White for the X's and an Aquamarine pigment for the O's.  To do this I divided the mixed resin into 2 mixing cups.  Use a few drops of Aquamarine in one mixing cup and of White into the 2nd mixing cup.  Then, stir to blend the colors into the resin.
Add some Iridescent powder for a bit of shimmer...
Pour prepared resin onto the texture sheets.  Use a lighter to remove any air bubbles that may rise to the top.  Let dry 12 hours.
Pull resin off the texture sheets and you have a great texture for the game pieces  Using the die cutting machine, lay the resin onto the die and cut out 5 of the X's and 5 of the O's.
For the second set, I mixed equal amounts of the EnviroTex Lite® resin and hardener as I did for the first set.  I mixed in a few drops of Castin' Craft Opaque White and poured it out onto 2 trays that were lined with the plastic sheet.  I dropped a few drops of pigment into the resin on each tray and used a toothpick to swirl it around.
I lifted the tray to create movement and spread the resin into a thin sheet.
I used a lighter to remove the air bubbles that rose to the top.  Let dry for 12 hours.
Peel the resin off the sheet.
Using the die cutting machine, lay the resin onto the die and cut out 5 of the X's and 5 of the O's.
These ones turned out with a marble finish look.
As I mentioned, I thought the color of the O's from the first set blended into the game board so I added just a touch of glitter to the top, using a craft brush, some glue and ultra fine glitter.  This helped to make the game pieces pop a bit more and I liked the results.
Here is a close up of the game board with the pieces again...
I actually think I like the first set the best...how about you?

Tic-Tac-Toe Game Board with EnviroTex Lite®

Thu, 06/23/2016 - 07:00
When I found these 8" x 8" wood frames at Micheal's, I knew that one of them would be perfect for a Tic-Tac-Toe Traveling Game Board.  Today I am going to share how I created the game board with EnviroTex Lite® and Ultra-Seal.  And, next week I will share a couple different ways to create the X's and O's for the game.

Materials:
  • EnviroTex Lite®
  • Ultra-Seal™
  • Wood frame, 8" x 8" opening
  • Decorative paper: 2 5/8" x 2 5/8" (5), 2 5/8" x 2 5/8" (4),
  • Paint
  • Paintbrush
  • Mixing cups
  • Stir sticks
  • Craft brush
  • Lighter

Project Instructions: 
Paint the inside and outside of the frame.  Let dry.  Begin applying the Ultra-Seal™ generously to the inside of the frame at one corner...
Place one of the paper squares on top of the Ultra-Seal, rub into place with your finger.  Then, generously apply the Ultra-Seal™ to the top side of the paper.  Continue, alternating the papers to create the tic-tac-toe board.  Let dry.  Apply another layer of the Ultra-Seal™.  Let dry.
 Mix together equal amounts of the EnviroTex Lite® hardener and resin into a cup and stir for 2 minutes.  
Pour into a second cup and stir for another minute.  Pour the resin into the frame.  Use a lighter to remove any air bubbles that may rise to the surface.  
 Let dry for 24 hours.
I love how this turned out and would even use it for a piece of ART on my wall...Come back next week to see how to create the X's and O's to complete the game!!



Baby Boy Coaster with EasyCast®

Tue, 06/21/2016 - 07:00
A few weeks ago my 8th grandchild was born...a precious baby boy...I happened to have some confetti left over from a baby shower for one of the other grand-kids...and thought creating a keepsake resin coaster would be a great way to use some of them up...

Here's how to create one...

Materials:
Project Instructions: 

Spray the mold with the Mold Release and Conditioner.
Mix equal parts of the EasyCast resin and hardener together, stir for 2 minutes.  Pour into a 2nd mixing cups and stir for another minute,.

Stir in a drop or two of the Castin' Craft white Pigment.
Pour into the bottom of the mold.
Use a lighter to remove any air bubbles.  Set aside for 12 hours to dry. 
Sort through the confetti, and... 
Place the desired pieces onto the top of the white layer of resin.  Mix together another ounce of resin and hardener, stirring for 2 minutes.  Placing into a new mixing cup and stir for another minute.  Pour the resin over the confetti...
Use a lighter to remove any air bubbles that may rise to the surface.  Let dry for 12 hours,
Pop the coaster out of the coaster!Now you have a great keepsake to give or keep!

Resin Vintage Tile Coasters with EnviroTex Lite®

Thu, 06/16/2016 - 07:00
Last week I create a Resin Trivet for my mom with some scrapbook paper I had in my stash that happened to be of the state of Florida, which is where she lives.  It was a 12" x 12" sheet and I had used an 8" x 8" piece of it....I love making coasters, as they are a functional item so, I decided to make some with tumbled marble tiles and the paper I had leftover.
Materials:
Project Instructions: Gather your supplies.
Trim your paper to 3 3/4" x 3 3/4" squares.  Apply the Ultra-Seal™ to the top of the tile and back side of the paper then, adhere the paper to the tile.  Let dry.  Apply a generous coat of Ultra-Seal™ to the top side of the paper and off the edge onto the tile.  Let dry.  Repeat and let dry overnight.
 Measure out equal amounts of the resin and hardener, stir together for 2 minutes.  Pour into a second cup and stir for another minute.  
Place the tiles an object to lift it off the surface.  Pour the resin onto the surface...
Brush the resin to the edges...
Brush over the edges, this will help to seal the tile.
Use a craft stick to remove excess resin as it drips.  Use a lighter to remove any air bubbles that rise to the surface.  Let dry for 12 hours.  Cut cork sheet into 3" x 3" pieces.  Glue to the bottom of the tiles for a finished look.
These would make a perfect gift!

I love how they turned out, look at that shine from the resin!
Enjoy your tiles!!

Wall Art with EnviroTex Lite®

Tue, 06/14/2016 - 07:00
Today we have designer Kristi Parker sharing an awesome canvas she created using EnviroTex Lite® .I have been wanting to create a large canvas using a lot of different products and finish the canvas with a great layer of EnviroTex Lite®.  I love the pour on finish for many surfaces but I really wanted to play.  Pictured below is the finished project.
Materials:
Project Instructions: 
Step One:  Using the Gel Press and Butcher Paper make MANY prints.Step Two:  Tear Prints in strips.
Step Three: Using the Ultra-Seal™ attach the paper to the Canvas.  Let Dry.
The cover with a second coat of Ultra-Seal.  Let dry.
Step Four: Paint a rough outline of a tree image.
Step Five: Fill in more of the tree and let dry.

Step Six: Add texture with 101 Heavy Artist Cement.  Let Dry.
Step Seven: Paint over the texture with browns/blacks/golden for accents.
Step Eight:  When dry set up a safe pour area and mix EnviroTex Lite®.  Measure out equal amounts of the resin and hardener, stir together for 2 minutes.  Pour into a second cup and stir for another minute.  Pour resin onto the surface. 
Use a lighter to remove any air bubbles that may rise to the surface.
LET DRY 100%
Hang up your art and ENJOY!
A closer look


I really love the depth the resin gives and added dimension!Thank you for joining me with this project.Kristi

DIY Trivet with EnviroTex Lite®

Thu, 06/09/2016 - 07:00
I am always on the look out for items to pour resin in....and use up some of the supplies I have on hand.  I found some 8" x 8" wood pieces at Michael's that would be perfect and created a decorative trivet using EnviroTex Lite®.

Here is photo with some of the supplies I used in this project.  I found this piece of scrapbook paper in my supplies with the state of Florida on it, which I knew would be perfect to use to create a trivet for my mom as she lives in Florida.

Materials:
  • EnviroTex Lite®
  • Ultra-Seal™
  • Paint, black
  • Wood frame, 8" x 8" 
  • Wood knobs, 3/4" (4)
  • Paper trimmer
  • Mixing cups
  • Stir sticks
  • Craft glue
  • Craft brush
  • Paint brush
  • Lighter
  • Highlighter (optional)
Please note:  I used the highlighter to highlight where my mom lives on the map.
Project Instructions: 
Paint the knobs along with the back side and edges of the wood piece.  Let dry.  Glue the knobs onto the bottom of the wood , about 1/2 inch away from the corners.  Trim the paper to fit into the bottom of the wood.  Apply the Ultra-Seal™ to the bottom of the wood and back side of the paper then, adhere the paper to the wood.  Let dry.
Apply a generous coat of Ultra-Seal™ to the top side of the paper.  Let dry.  Repeat and let dry overnight.
 Measure out equal amounts of the resin and hardener, stir together for 2 minutes.
 Pour into a second cup and stir for another minute.
Pour resin onto the surface.
 Use a lighter to remove any air bubbles that rise to the surface.  Let dry for 12 hours.  I did a thin layer and repeated with two more layers of resin. 
 From this angle you can see the knobs work perfectly for feet on the trivet.
I will set this aside for 72 hours to cure completely.  While it is decorative, it can be used for a tea pot, or with something warm.  I would not use it to put a pan that comes directly out of the oven.
This is a quick and easy project that would make a great gift as you can personalize it for the person you would be giving it to, just like I did!  Enjoy!!

Faux Opal Paper Weight with EasyCast®

Tue, 06/07/2016 - 07:00
I love creating Faux Opals with EasyCast® to create beautiful jewelry pieces, that I thought I would like to try it on a larger scale.  Thus, a paper weight came to mind.
I think the result as you can see is stunning!
Materials:
Project Instructions: 
Spray mold with mold release.
Measure out equal parts (1 ounce each) of EasyCast resin and hardener, then, stir together for 2 minutes.  Pour mixture into a second cup and stir for another minute. 
Stir in cut up Fantasy Film.
Pour into mold.  Move fantasy film around if needed or add more at this point.
Remove any bubbles that rise to the top with a lighter.  Let set for 12 hours.
 Measure out equal parts (1/2 ounce each) of EasyCast resin and hardener, then, stir together for 2 minutes.  Pour mixture into a second cup and stir for another minute.  Stir in a drop or two of the pigment into the mixture.
 Pour mixture into the mold...
covering the first layer completely.  Use a light to remove any air bubbles that may rise to the surface.  Let set for 12 hours.
 Remove from the mold to see a beautiful paper weight.
In this photo you can see the black layer.
 I love how it turned out and...
that you can see different colors depending upon the angle you are looking at.

Stained Glass Sun Catcher with EasyCast®

Thu, 06/02/2016 - 07:00
Usually when I have a just a bit of left over resin from a project I pour it into molds I have next to my work station.  The other day I thought I would try to something a bit different...
 I bought this butterfly sun catcher at the craft store and knew it would be perfect to try some stain glass with resin.

Materials:
Project Instructions: 
If you are not using a bit of left over EasyCast® from a project, mix 1/2 - 1 ounce according to manufacturer's instructions
 Divide resin into several mixing cups.  Add a drop or two of dye (colors of choice) into each cup.
 Use a toothpick to apply each color to the sun catcher.  TIP: If you spill any of the colored resin into an area that you do not want it in, simply use a baby wipe to remove it.
Remove any air bubbles that rise to the top with a lighter.  Let dry overnight.

Add a string and place in the window to enjoy!
This was a perfect project to use up just a bit of left over resin from a bigger project.  I will be looking for some larger sun catchers the next time I am in the craft store.

Showcase your Adult Coloring Book Art with EnviroTex Lite®

Tue, 05/31/2016 - 07:00
Adult Coloring books are all the rage right now and today designer Marty Sanchez shows how to showcase your coloring book art into Coasters, a Canvas and Keepsake Box with EnviroTex Lite®.


Materials:
  • EnviroTex Lite (8 ounce kit)
  • (4)  4.5” x 4.5” white ceramic tiles (coasters), Paper Mache box with lid, or stretched canvas
  • Ruler
  • Scissors
  • Wax paper
  • One page of your own art
  • Ultra-Seal™ Multi-Purpose Sealer & Glue 
  • Choice of  acrylic paint color for box and canvas
  • (2) disposable foam brushes
  • (2) mixing cups and one stir stick
  • (4) medicine cups
  • Embossing gun, propane torch or straw (to remove bubbles)
  • 2 pairs form fitting latex gloves
  • 220 grit sandpaper or nail file (to sand drips off under side)
  • Protective eye wear
  • Dust mask to wear while sanding
  • Felt (for underside of coasters)
Project Instructions: 
 Cut your art to fit each of your ceramic tiles, painted box or painted canvas.
 Brush a thin layer of Ultra-Seal on the top of each surface and place cut art.  Use your fingers to smooth the art and make certain no air bubbles are between the paper and tile, box or canvas.
 Using a disposable foam brush put a thin layer of white craft glue over the entire surface of your colored art.  Let dry and repeat twice more.  Let the last coat dry overnight.
 Set medicine cups on wax paper surface and place tiles, canvas or box top & bottom on cups, so they are slightly raised from the table surface.
 Mix EnviroTex Lite® according to package instructions and pour 1.5 to 2 ounces on each tile.  8 ounces for a 9" X 12" canvas and 6 ounces for the box (3 for the top and 3 for the bottom).
 Pour EnviroTex Lite®over the surface of each piece.
 Spread the product with a clean disposable foam brush.
 Wait 10 minutes and then remove any bubbles that may appear.  Let piece completely cure (72 hours) and then sand the underside smooth.  Wear protective eye wear and dust mask while sanding.
Cut felt pieces to fit the underside of the coaster.  Brush on a thin layer of Ultra-Seal™ to the underside of the coaster and place the felt.  Let dry.

Resin Cover Address Sign

Thu, 05/26/2016 - 07:00
I found several of these wood frames with a lip and knew they would be perfect for some Resin projects.  For this first project I decide to crate an address sign for my mom's house in Florida.  It will be able to hang outside under the awning of her porch out of the way of the elements.  
Materials Required:
  • EnviroTex Lite®
  • Ultra-Seal™
  • Wood frame, 6" x 18"
  • Decoative paper
  • Die cutting machine
  • Paint, yellow iridecents
  • Cups
  • Stir sticks
  • Craft brush
  • Paint brush
  • Lighter

Project Instructions: 
Paint the wood frame and let dry.  Die cut the numbers needed for the sign, if you do not have a die cutting machine, simple draw the numbers on the paper and cut them out.  Apply Ultra-Seal™ to the frame (where you will be placing the numbers) and back side of the numbers, adhere to the frame.
Apply 2 coats of Ultra-Seal™ over the numbers, drying in between each coat. 
Measure out equal amounts of EnviroTex Lite® resin and hardener.
Stir for 2 minutes, then, pour into a second cup and stir for another minute.
Pour resin onto the frame.
Use the lighter to remove any air bubbles that rise to the top.  Let dry 12 - 24 hours,

Now the frame is ready to hang...once I get to Florida that is:0)

Resin up your Crystal Cell Phone Cover

Tue, 05/24/2016 - 07:00
There are so many beautiful cell phone covers available on the market today.  When you decide to purchase a cover you want it to last, at least for a while, because they can be pricey!   
 I purchased the cover shown above, and loved it, but it did not take long for the small crystals to start falling off as you can see on the right of the cover.  This got me to thinking of how to make the next cover I buy last longer and still be able to enjoy the sparkle of a crystal cover.  The answer was simple...Give it a coat of EnviroTex Lite®, as it would both protect the crystals and let them shine!
Materials Required:
Project Instructions: 
Tape around the cover and place up off your work surface, using a couple small cups.
 I used a marker to highlight the lines on my mixing cup, as I knew I would only need a small amount of EnviroTex Lite® for the top of the cover.  I measured out the resin to the first line and the hardener to the second line, giving me equal amounts of each.
Stir for 2 minutes, then pour into a second cup and stir for another minute.
 Pour resin onto the cover.
 Use a stir stick to move the resin to the edges.
 Be sure to move the resin around any openings of the cover.
 Use a light to remove any air bubbles.  Let set for 12 hours.
 Pull the tape away and now...
Your cover is protected and ready to use.Enjoy!!

Red, White and Blue Layered Glittered Paper Weight

Thu, 05/19/2016 - 07:00
Memorial Day is right around the corner so I thought a Red, White and Blue Paper Weight would be perfect to hold the napkins down for our family picnic. 
I love how this turned out!! Materials Required:
Project Instructions: 
Please note:  The mold holds slightly less than 3 ounces total so each layer will take just under 1 ounce each.  
Measure out equal amounts of  the EasyCast® Resin and Hardener and mix together for 2 minutes, then poured them into a new cup and mix for another minute.
Spray the inside of the mold with Mold Release.
 Pour the mixed resin into the mold, about 1/3 full.

Mix in red glitter...until thoroughly blended.

Use a lighter to remove and air bubbles that rise to the top.  Let cure for 12 hours.

Mix another batch of EasyCast® as directed above,.  Mix in a bit of iridescent glitter,  Pour into the mold on top of the first layer.  Use a lighter to remove and air bubbles that rise to the top.  Let cure for 12 hours.  Repeat with the blue glitter for the last layer.  Use a lighter to remove and air bubbles that rise to the top.  Let cure for 12 hours.  Pop out of the mold.

Here is the finished paper weight...ready to use Memorial Day!

Pages