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by ETI
Updated: 2 hours 58 min ago

10 Creative DIY Mold Projects You’re Going to Love

3 hours 25 min ago


Happy end of October, friends! Fall has flown by and we’re moving into another season already. The good news about this time of year is that the holiday season is approaching quickly and it’s a great time of year to create DIY projects. Whether you’re creating them for yourself or to give as a gift to a loved one, these creative DIY Mold Projects are perfect! We hope you enjoy what we’ve rounded up and that you share the projects you create with us!

DIY Shell Mold | Resin Crafts Blog

DIY Silicone Jewelry Mold | Sustain My Craft Habit

DIY Cabochon Molds | Doodlecraft

 

DIY Chocolate Letter  Mold | Resin Crafts Blog

DIY Pumpkin Inspired Mini-Vase | Resin Crafts Blog

DIY Pool Ball Inspired Bookend | Resin Crafts Blog

DIY Mason Jar Candles | Resin Crafts Blog

DIY Starfish Bath Bombs | Resin Crafts Blog

DIY Easy Skull Mold | Resin Crafts Blog

DIY Sparrow Wall Art | Resin Crafts Blog

 

Which one are you going to create?

 

Mini Resin Pumpkin Vase – Perfect for Small Fall Stems

Wed, 10/18/2017 - 07:00

I am obsessed with all things lucite and clear! I love glassy finishes and a glam acrylic piece of furniture. If you saw my bar top makeover, you can see how I updated my ugly, dated bar to a beautiful, glassy finish. Today, I’m sharing how to get an acrylic look with my pumpkin inspired mini vase DIY.

I don’t usually decorate for Fall, except changing pillows and throws, but I did want to make some updates this year. Cue this cute mini vase that I made with Clear Polyester Casting Resin and EasyMold Silicone Paste (for a pumpkin mold). It’s perfect for adding some small floral cuttings.

Let me show you how to make your own.

Here’s what you need:

Supplies:
  • Castin’ Craft Clear Polyester Casting Resin
  • Castin’ Craft EasyMold Silicone Paste
  • Plastic Measuring cups
  • Plastic cup (the size that you want the interior of your vase to be)
  • Castin’ Craft Mold Release
  • Stir Sticks
  • Palette Knife (or butter knife)
  • Pumpkin of your choice

 

I’ve used these materials quite often now, so I’m familiar with their use, but be sure to follow these steps carefully and also read the instructions that come with the product before you get started.

Here’s what you need to do.

First, we’re making a mold of the pumpkin!

  1. Measure equal amounts of each part of the Castin’ Craft EasyMold Silicone Paste.
  2. Elevate your pumpkin upside down. This ensures that you can cast the pumpkin from the bottom. I used one of my measuring cups to put my pumpkin on top of.
  3. Mix the two parts together thoroughly. You’ll know when you’re done when the color of the mixture is solid throughout.
  4. Use your palette knife (or butter knife) to spread the EasyMold mixture all around your pumpkin, making sure to leave enough room for an opening in your mold. You can always cut off some of the mold to make room for your cup that you’ll be using for the “vase” interior.
  5. Let dry for about 3 hours. Once your mold is dry, you can remove your pumpkin.

Now, let’s cast your pumpkin shape and turn it into a mini vase!

  1. Take your plastic cup that you’re using for the interior of your “vase” and spray the entire outside with Castin’ Craft Mold Release. Let the cup dry.
  2. Add catalyst (provided with your Castin’ Craft Polyester Casting Resin) to the resin. The casting resin container has instructions on the back that tells you how many drops of catalyst per ounce of resin you need to be mixing. The thicker the layer, the less drops of catalyst you’ll use. Since I poured once (and not many layers) into a 7” pumpkin mold, I used 1 drop of catalyst per 2 oz of resin. I ended up using 16 oz of resin to fill the mold.
  3. Mix the mixture for a full one minute.
  4. Pour the mixture about half way full.
  5. Allow the mixture to gel. This takes about 15 – 25 minutes.
  6. Once your mixture has a gel-like consistency, you can place the cup (the one you’re using for your vase interior} into the mold, push down until you get the cup at the depth that you want. I used some random metal pieces to weigh the cup down.
  7. Following the directions above, mix a new batch of mixture and pour it to fill the rest of the mold.
  8. Let mixture completely cure.

Once your resin has cured, you can remove it from the mold and your cup inside should come out easy enough if you’ve used your mold release. Use pliers to help, if it’s a bit stuck.

Now, you can style your mini vase with a floral arrangement. I initially bought a bouquet of roses and sunflowers to use for the vase, but I felt terrible about cutting – already cut – flowers that short. So, I headed to the plant store and grabbed a chrysanthemum plant, so that I can cut stems off it. The best part is that I can nourish my plant to grow, so that I can continue to pull cuttings from it throughout the Fall season!

This project was pretty simple, but there was some curing time involved, so don’t expect to be finished in a few hours. You can, however, do a batch of these over the weekend. I wanted a mini pumpkin (since I’m not a pumpkin girl), but I could totally see this replicated using a much larger pumpkin to mold. Just remember to lay your EasyMold silicone paste on a bit thick so that your mold can sit up on its own. A thin mold will be flimsy and won’t hold its shape.

Another thing I thought about is that this mini vase will be perfect for a small votive, so it can also act as a candle holder!

Hope you’re inspired to get crafting!

Candy Sprinkles Resin Keychain DIY

Mon, 10/16/2017 - 07:00

Candy Sprinkles Resin Keychain DIY

Hey friends, it’s Natalie from Doodlecraft, showing you another awesome resin craft idea.  October just screams candy to me, probably because of Halloween…so this resin candy keychain is perfect for this time of year.  So get out your baking sprinkles and alphabet beads and let’s make some candy inspired art!

These keychains can be customized and make the perfect handmade gift for the holidays.

You will need:

Castin’ Craft: Clear Polyester Casting Resin

Cabinet knob molds : Rectangular Pulls

Mold Release and Conditioner

Alphabet Beads

Candy sprinkles and various other candies

Drill and bit

Ball chain keychain

Let’s get started!  Begin by covering your work area with paper or a plastic tablecloth.  Then read all the instructions and mixing directions for the clear polyester casting resin.  Work in a well ventilated area…and if possible, not inside the house, like garage.  If indoors, open windows and doors to allow air flow. Spray your molds with the release and conditioner according to package directions and set on work surface.  Then mix up 3 ounces of resin with the proper amount of catalyst.  Stir for the full minute and then gently pour about 1/8 inch of resin in each mold form.  Let them set for about 20 minutes.Check that the resin is set enough, try tipping the mold slightly and see if the resin is still runny.  It needs to be gel-like but not hardened yet.  Then fill the mold with colorful sprinkles and candy.
Or add the cute alphabet beads…note that some of the colors will fade and possibly bleed.  The red beads bled the most and the blue, green and yellows faded.  Still, they look adorable.  You’ll notice that the beads sit right on top of that layer of resin which is perfect…you do not want them to sink to the bottom.Fill around the beads with sprinkles.  I love the thick mass of sprinkles, it’s like the cupcake of my dreams.Work quickly to get everything set and then wait about 20 more minutes.After 20 minutes, mix up another 3-4 ounces of resin according to package directions.  Then pour over the candy sprinkles and fill the molds.  At this point, I let them set up overnight to about 24 hours.Remove them from the molds, they should pop out easily because of the release and conditioner spray.  Buff them with a firm dish cloth to bring out their shine.  Now get a drill and bit and drill a hole right through the resin and candy.String the ball chain right through the hole and it is ready to use as a keychain.  I love the brightly colored sprinkles and candy!Great for hooking to your keys or on a backpack as a zipper pull, or even worn as a necklace.Great for handmade holiday gifts and any time of year.  The perfect way to immortalize the candy you love.

 

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10 Creative Halloween Party Decorations You Need This Fall

Fri, 10/13/2017 - 07:00


Can you guys believe that September has already come and gone? We here at Resin Crafts love Fall so much, we’re sad to see the season passing us by! We’re committed to savoring this time of year while we can, so we’re immersing ourselves in all things Fall. If you’re craving more seasonal action too, hop on over and check out our post on Creative DIY Halloween Decorations or even these Fun DIY Halloween Costumes.

Back to what you’re here for. We hope you love these Halloween Party Decorations as much as we do!

Halloween Boos Sign | DecoArt Blog

Spider Halloween Wine Charms | Lydi Out Loud

Halloween Skull Vase | Persia Lou

Halloween Watermelon Mummy | The Jenny Evolution

Halloween Candy Jar Party Favors | Clever Pink Pirate

Ping Pong Ball Ghost Lights | The unOriginal Mom

Chalkboard Halloween Wine Sign | Sweet C’s Designs

Halloween Bat Party Lights | Eighteen25

DIY Halloween Banner | Sweet Tea and Saving Grace

Halloween Costume Party Awards | U Create

Which ones will you create for your Halloween party?

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DIY Halloween Jewelry with EnviroTex Jewelry Resin

Wed, 10/11/2017 - 07:00

How does that saying go again? “Trick or treat, smell my feet, give me something good to eat!”. Yup, it’s that time of year!

Although I personally don’t dress up for Halloween, I really enjoy seeing all of the fun and scary Halloween costumes and accessories. So as a way of embracing the season, I wanted to create a piece of jewelry that was Halloween-themed but yet beautiful and subtle enough to be worn all year long.

Jane created this beautiful water color painting of a spider web, which we sized down to fit inside a jewelry pendant. This opens the door to so many possibilities! Just think of all of the other beautiful artwork you could capture inside a pendant.

Materials Needed to make your our DIY Halloween Jewelry Pendant: Preparing the Pendant Bezel:

Using a laser printer, print out the spiderweb water color template in black and white color setting.  Carefully cut the spiderweb printable to fit the bezel using scissors or the right size of paper punch.

Coat the inside of the bezel as well as the back side of the image with some clear glue or multi purpose sealer.

Place the image inside the coated pendant bezel and press down to remove any bubbles underneath.

Generously coat the top of the image and sides of the bezel with the multipurpose sealer. Let dry completely.

Applying the Resin to the Prepared Pendant Bezel:

For best results be sure to read the instructions provided in the EnviroTex Jewelry Resin packaging.

Always ensure your resin and hardener are at room temperature or feel slightly warm to the touch before using.  Mix exactly equal amounts of Resin and Hardener into one measuring cup.

Stir continuously for 2 minutes, scraping the sides of the container.

Pour the mixture into a second cup and stir for an additional minute, scraping the sides of the container and stir stick.

Using the stir stick, carefully dip your stick into the EnviroTex mixture and then drop into the bezel. Fill the piece slightly higher than the rim for a nice dome finish.

Place pendant on a level surface and cover to keep dust from settling in.

After about 15 minutes, remove any bubbles that have risen to the surface by gently blowing over the piece through a straw. Repeat if necessary after another 15 minutes.

Cover and allow to cure overnight.

Pop by our blog to grab your free printable spider web watercolor painted art.  Simply print it, frame it and style it for an extra bit of Halloween decor.

And you’ll definitely want to check out this latest post on fun DIY Halloween costume ideas for all ages. We’ll have you ready for Halloween in no time!

Like it? Pin it for Later!

 

 

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3 Simple Resin Halloween Decorations

Mon, 10/09/2017 - 07:00

Halloween is such a fun time of year, from carving pumpkins and dressing in costume to decorating with all sorts of spooky themed decorations. Today I am bringing you three Resin Halloween Decorations that I made using products from ETI. These projects are easy to make and add a little fun to your Halloween decorations.

I don’t have an overall supply list for these projects, but I will list the supplies for each one before I tell you how I made them. Since this post is compiling a few different projects, I will also be linking to other posts that have in-depth tutorials on how to use the product for that decoration.

“Framed” Skeleton Supplies:

The first thing you need to do is spray your mold with the Mold Release and Conditioning Spray so that your casting won’t get stuck in the mold after it cures. I recommend applying two coats of mold release and letting it dry completely. This takes a little extra time, but is a step that will make your life easier in the end.

Once your spray dries, get your FastCast out. There are two parts that you will mix together. The biggest factor to be aware of with FastCast is that you have a very short working time with this product once it is mixed. You will combine equal amounts of Part A and B in a cup, then mix them quickly but thoroughly, for 30-45 seconds at most, then quickly pour them into your mold. If you feel the cup getting warm when you mix then that is a sign you need to pour it quickly.

The resin will begin to cure after a few minutes and it will start to turn white. After 10 minutes it will be completely white and cured. 

Remove your castings from the mold!

I then arranged the pieces within my painted frame and secured them with double-sided mounting tape. And there you have it, a “Framed” Skeleton!

**Another project using FastCast with full tutorial is Resin Seashell Wall Art using FastCast. Check that tutorial if you want more details on how FastCast works. Also, always read the instructions within the package before starting.**

“Boo” Decorative Galvanized Hanging Tin Supplies:
  • Hanging Galvanized Tin
  • EasyCast Clear Casting Epoxy
  • Metal Letters B-O-O
  • Double-Sided Mounting Tape
  • Two Mixing Cups
  • Two Wooden Stir Sticks
  • Micro Butane Torch

Gather your letter and apply small pieces of mounting tape on the back of them.

Arrange them where you want them in the tin, remove paper backing from the mounting tape and adhere them in place.

Mix EasyCast according to instructions. You have a lot more working time with EasyCast, so you won’t need to rush this time.

Mix equal amounts of Part A and Part B into a mixing cup. Stir together thoroughly. Pour into second clean cup and stir with a clean stir stick. Once thoroughly mixed, pour into your tin. After a few minutes of allowing the bubbles to arise to the surface, use your micro butane torch to pop the bubbles. You can also just exhale over the piece, but the torch is much faster. Just be sure to move it quickly just above the surface and not to let it scorch the resin.

Allow to cure for 24-48 hours (depending on temp and depth of pour.) 

Once cured, hang it in a fun place to display for Halloween. I tried a few different options. This would be perfect for someone with simple rustic decor in their home!

**Another project using EasyCast with full mixing instructions is Wood and Resin Pendant using EasyCast.**

Halloween “Tic-Tac-Toe” Game Supplies:

For this project you’ll follow the same steps for mixing EasyCast in order to make TEN game pieces. First, be sure that you applied two coats of mold release and conditioning spray to your mold. Then mix the EasyCast parts as instructed above. For some of the pieces, I used my previously made Skull Mold as well.

Once mixed, let the pieces cure for at least 24 hours, perhaps longer. Remove the castings from the mold when it has cured.

Spray five of the pieces with Resin Spray Sealer. Paint the other five pieces with black paint.

Spray paint the 12″x12″ tile with metallic silver spray paint. Use washi tape to create your grid. There you have it! A fun Halloween themed game for your coffee table that is both decorative and fun to play! Instead of X’s and O’s you have black and clear game pieces. So much fun!

**Another EasyCast project with full tutorial can be found here: Resin Map Pendant using EasyCast.

I hope you enjoyed these three quick Resin Halloween Decorations! I had so much fun making them and have had many compliments. What do you think?

If you like these projects, please pin this image to Pinterest!

Thanks for stopping by!

~~Sheri

 

 

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Meet the Maker: Whitney Jones

Fri, 10/06/2017 - 07:00

Hello there and happy Friday! It’s the first Friday of the month… that means time to meet another Resin Crafts Ambassador, Whitney Jones.

Whitney is a New Orleans based decorator, blogging about all things home on her site Whitney J. Decor. She loves to sew and create fabulous pillows and other furnishings. She has been inspired to make many new beautiful home accessories featuring resin. When Whitney’s not working on design projects, she’s reading sci-fi novels, working in her garden, or making updates in her new home.

Here are some of Whitney’s most popular projects on Resin Crafts Blog:

High Gloss Bar Top Makeover

Oversized Pool Ball Lucite Bookends

DIY Coffee Mug Planter

Stay tuned for more creative and inspiring projects from Whitney coming soon!

Make Your Own Chic Clear Knobs

Wed, 10/04/2017 - 07:00

Hey everyone! This is Lindi, from Love Create Celebrate. I’m excited to be back sharing another great DIY project. Ever since I started using resin, I’ve been itching to make a clear resin knob. Not only do clear knobs look sleek and stylish, but seeing the hardware through the knob is so interesting! It gets my science-loving soul all excited.

I made two versions of clear knobs. One with just resin, and one where I added the blue dye. There are tons of different shapes and colours that you can use to really make these knobs unique.

Materials: Instructions:

Start by mixing your resin according to package directions. A total of two ounces made three knobs.

Once it’s all mixed, pour it into a second cup and mix again. This will ensure that all of Part A and B are properly combined. If you want to add a dye to your mixture, this is the time to do it. Add a drop at a time and stir. Do this until you get the colour you want.

Spray the mold release and conditioner into your mold. This will make it easier to remove the resin later.

Pour your resin mixture into your knob molds – all the way to the top without spilling over.

After the resin mixture is poured, wait about 10 minutes for any bubbles to surface and exhale onto the resin to release bubbles that you don’t want to be able to see.

Wait 24 hours for the resin to set. When it is ready, pop it out of the mold and measure the width.

Find the centre (divide your width in half), and mark the centre on your knob. Anything sharp will scratch the surface.

Using a drill or a drill press, and a bit that is the same size as our hardware, drill a hole directly in the centre of your knob. Make sure that you stop a few mm before going through the other side!

Start putting your hardware into your resin clear knobs. You won’t be able to put the hardware all of the way through with just your hands, but I have a great trick for you! Next, take your two nuts and put them onto the hardware tight to one another. This is where you may need the two wrenches: one to hold the bottom nut and one to tighten the second one to it.

Once the nuts are tight to one another, you can just use one wrench or a socket on the top nut to push the bolt down further. Once it’s down as far as you want, loosen and remove the nuts.

Now you can add your beautiful clear knobs to your favourite dresser or cabinet!

Hope you like the project! Enjoy!

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Pumpkin Spice Soap in a Pumpkin Shape

Mon, 10/02/2017 - 08:18

You can make pumpkin spice soap for your bathroom this fall!  Want some bonus points?  Mold them into a pumpkin shape for something that looks like decor but is actually a great way to welcome guests.  This project is really simple but your guests will love having the smell of fall when they wash their hands in your bathroom.  You can also group a few of these and give as a cute hostess gift idea.  Either way, you will want to make a large batch of these adorable soaps.

Supplies needed to make your pumpkin mold:
  • EasyMold® Silicone Paste
  • Small plastic pumpkins
  • Acrylic or plastic block
  • Hot glue and glue gun
  • Measuring cups
  • Mixing cup
  • Stir sticks
  • Disposable craft brush

You will want your pumpkin to be still while you mold it.  Use hot glue to secure it to an acrylic or plastic block.  This will ensure that it will stay stationary when you work.

Start by reading all of the instructions that come with the EasyMold® Silicone Paste.  The product is easy to use, however, it needs to be mixed and applied properly.  Start by measuring (by weight or volume) equal parts of the two components that you will find in the box.  Mix these two well in the mixing cup.  The product should be a uniform color when mixed with no streaks.

Then apply your first layer with a disposable craft brush to the pumpkin that is on the acrylic block making sure to get into all of the fine details.  I did my mold as a half pumpkin so either draw a line or work to only the halfway mark.

After the first layer is complete, I found it easier to apply the thicker layers with a stir stick.  You can work up to 1/4 to 3/8″ thick if needed.

I also used a bit of extra on the very top to create a flat place.  This will help the mold to sit flat when pouring your soap later.

Allow your mold to cure completely.  I let mine sit overnight.  Then just pop the mold away from the pumpkin.  Look at that fine detail!

I actually made a pair of molds as it was easy and this will make the soap making go a little faster.

Supplies to make pumpkin spice soap:
  • Goat’s milk soap base
  • Soap colorant (designed especially for soaps) (I used a peach color)
  • Pumpkin pie spice
  • Microwave safe bowl or measuring cup with spout

Cut away about 1/8 of the soap block and add it to the bowl.  Microwave in 20 second increments stirring well after each until completely melted.  Stir in colorant until you are happy with the color however remember that the pumpkin pie spice will change it dramatically.  Add in about 1 teaspoon of the pumpkin pie spice last.  Stir completely.  You can add more colorant at this time if you would like.  Pour the mixture into your molds.

Allow the pumpkin spice soap to set up about an hour then remove from the mold.

You now have the perfect pumpkin shaped soap for your guest bathroom!

Heck….you will want these delicious smelling soaps in every room of your home.  They look and smell good enough to eat, however so be sure everyone knows they are for washing hands only.

Give making an adorable pumpkin spice soap a try.  You will love the touch of fall that it brings to your bath.

Make a large batch and keep them on hand for hostess gifts this fall as well.  Pop a few in a small jar for a lovely gift that anyone will love.  Pumpkin shaped soaps are perfect for everyone on your list.

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10 Creative DIY Halloween Decorations

Fri, 09/29/2017 - 07:00

It’s officially Fall, and we here at Resin Crafts could not be more excited. This season is the time for beautiful Fall color palettes, awesome decorations, delicious apple and pumpkin recipes and so much more! We’ve been sharing a ton of Fall DIY’s because it’s the perfect time of year to craft while saving money. If you want to immerse yourself in all things Fall and Halloween like we do, you might want to hop over and check out our DIY Halloween Costume post or even these gorgeous DIY Fall Wreaths. 

Now, back to our Creative DIY Halloween Decorations. We’ve got all different kinds of unique pieces that would look perfect in your home. We hope you love them as much as we do!

DIY Halloween Mantel Decor | Grace and Good Eats

Floating Witch Hat Luminaries | Polka Dot Chairs

Giant Spider Decor | The Pinning Mama

Dollar Store Skull Decor | My Life and Kids

Witch Feet in Cauldron | Rachel Teodoro

Mini Mummies Decoration | Pretty Providence

Glam Halloween Wreath | Eighteen 25

Dollar Store Spooky Village | The 36th Avenue

Outdoor Halloween Decor | The Country Chic Cottage

Pumpkin Candy Bowl | Persia Lou

Which one will you create this Halloween?

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Fake Rock Key Holder with EasySculpt

Wed, 09/27/2017 - 07:00

I’m so excited to share this project with you today. Some time ago, I came across a fake rock key holder while online shopping and I immediately fell in love with the concept. It’s such a creative and simple idea but also serves a practical purpose.

And since making our EasySculpt stone jewelry, we thought we should give this fake rock key holder project a try.

With the kids back at school, the timing couldn’t be more perfect. I now have a designated spot to hide my spare house key for when the kids come home and my husband will be happy that I’m no longer putting the house key in our mailbox; which I have guiltily done from time to time. Can you tell which of these rocks is holding my spare house key?

MATERIALS NEEDED TO MAKE A FAKE ROCK KEY HOLDER WITH EASY SCULPT MODELING CLAY:

Before starting, be sure to read the instructions provided in the packaging. Also, protect your work surface with a sheet of wax paper.

HOW TO FORM A FAKE ROCK KEY HOLDER:

1. Use two wood sticks to take equal amounts of components “A” and “B” from the containers (be careful not to cross mix the materials in the containers).

2. Spray some of the release agent (or vegetable oil) on your gloves to keep the clay from sticking. Form the clay into balls of approximately equal size by eye.

3. Press together completely and blend the two balls until they are uniform in color with no ribbons or marbling or little lumps (about 2 minutes).

4. The clay will start to get softer and stickier at this point. Add 1 drop of black pigment and mix until it is well blended. Add another drop of black pigment if desired, to obtain the desired color.  Keep adding the release agent to your gloves as needed.

5. Add a drop of white pigment and mix for less time to achieve a marbled, uneven (more authentic looking) rock color.

6. Optional: Add a dash of kosher sea salt, ground pepper, and white flour for additional texture and color.  Flatten the clay and put aside on wax paper for about 30 minutes.  TIP: Have a collection of real rocks nearby to reference for color, shape and size.

7.  Wrap the clay around the plastic canister leaving the canister opening uncovered.

8. Continue to form and mold the clay into the desired rock shape. Dip it in some more kosher sea salt for added visual texture if desired. Put it aside to harden for another 30 minutes.

9.  Continue to check the clay and adjust the shape as needed.

10. Pull the clay away from the opening of the canister to ensure the lid can still be closed and opened properly once the rock is fully formed.

11. Re-position the piece as needed to avoid it from miss-shaping as it hardens.  You can use some talc powder to prevent your piece from sticking to the wax paper.  My rock  has some wax paper stuck to the bottom of it; which happened from me experimenting with the mold release agent on the wax paper.

FINISHING:

The fake rock key holder will be fully set in 6 hours.  But you should leave it to cure fully for 24 hours before using.

I’m pretty amazed at how closely it resembles an actual rock. What about you, can you tell which are the real rocks and which one is the fake rock key holder?

 

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Mixed Media Resin Canvas

Mon, 09/25/2017 - 07:00

Mixed Media Resin Canvas

Hi friends, it’s Natalie from Doodlecraft!  Mixed Media art is so much fun and totally in.  Adding resin to it seals the deal and makes it a work of art.  Mixed Media is just using lots of different types of media–the sky is the limit!

Supplies:

Paint/Paintbrushes

Stretched Canvas

Stencils

Spray paint

Envirotex Lite High Gloss Resin

Fast Cast Resin Sparrow (from this post)

Directions:

Start by painting the canvas.  Using acrylic craft paints, coat the entire canvas, edges and all.  Then squeeze out a variety of colors on a palette and get ready for some wild painting.

Add colors, here and there…mix, blend, smear.  This is such a relaxing and stress relieving activity.  If you like coloring books, you will love this.

Use some stencils to create interesting patterns and shapes.

When completely satisfied with the canvas, let the paint dry.

Use a paintbrush to paint a little saying on the canvas.  “Let your heart soar”.  If you aren’t into hand lettering, cut some clippings from magazines or the newspaper and glue pieces on like a ransom note.

Then hot glue the fast cast resin bird right to the canvas.  Look around and see if you have anything you can add to the canvas…or get some Silicone Mold Putty and Fast Cast Resin and make your own.

Next it’s time to coat the whole piece in high gloss resin.  Work in a well ventilated area.  Place a tablecloth on your work table.  Put 2 cans of beans on the table and a piece of wood that fits inside the backing of the canvas.

Place the canvas over the board.  The board keeps the canvas tight and stiff, instead of collapsing under the weight of the resin.

Read the instructions for the high gloss resin.  Follow the instructions by using half of the resin, half of the hardener and then stirring for 2 minutes.  Pour into a new measuring cup and use a new stick to stir it for one more minute.

Then pour the gloss right on top of the canvas.

Use a stick or old credit card to move the resin to all the edges.  Then let it drip for about 10 minutes.  After that, use a mini torch or a low heat gun to go over the resin and pop any bubbles.  Check it again 10 minutes later and repeat the bubble popping process.  Then let it harden overnight.

Check out your amazing artwork the next day!  The high gloss shine takes this project from a simple piece to a masterpiece!

This is the perfect way to add interesting pieces to your home that have a personal touch!

Check out these posts on canvas pieces too!

Poured Resin:

Gold Leaf Abstract:

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10 DIY Resin Jewelry Projects You’re Going To Love

Fri, 09/22/2017 - 07:00

Hello friends and happy Friday! How’s your week going? I don’t know about you guys, but we here at Resin Crafts are definitely in the crafting mood lately. Some of our favorite things to create, as you may already know, is DIY Resin Jewelry. It creates such a unique result that can be easily done at home and makes an amazing gift for others! We’ve rounded up our favorite DIY Resin Jewelry projects for you to have all in one place. Which ones will you create?

Birth Month Flower Jewelry  

Beaded Jewelry

 Jewelry Clay Pendant with Ink Transfer

Lavender Flower Pendant

Clay Foiled Pendant and Earring Set

  

Autumn Leaf Pendant

Map Pendant

Seahorse Pendant

Wood and Resin Pendant

Steampunk Pendant Necklace

Have you made any resin jewelry? We would love to see it! Have a wonderful weekend!

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Create a Skull Mold using EasyMold Putty

Wed, 09/20/2017 - 07:00

Whether you think skulls are great decor in general or only for October, this Skull Mold is an easy project for you to add to your list this month! The EasyMold Silicone Putty makes it quick and simple, and you’ll be amazed at what you can make once this mold is finished. The best part? It literally took just a few minutes to shape the mold and half an hour of curing time. Here’s how I did it!

Skull Mold Supplies:
  • EasyMold Silicone Putty
  • Disposable Gloves (Optional but recommended)
  • Clean and Smooth work surface
  • Item to make mold from, in this case, a Skull Candlestick

EasyMold Silicone Putty is a quick and simple product that you can use to make a mold where you just need to replicate one section of the item you are casting. In my case I wanted to create a skull face mold for some napkin rings that I had on hand, so I only needed to replicate the front of the skull face; EasyMold Silicone Putty was the perfect product for that. It comes in two parts, Part A (white) and Part B (purple). Take equal amounts of each part for your project. You’ll want to keep in mind how large your final mold needs to be, and take at least half that size in each color. Rolling them into small balls helps determine if they are similar in size.

Mixing Putty:

Take the two parts and begin to combine them by pressing them together and continuing to knead them.

The two parts will begin to combine to look marbled. Knead quickly, as it should take you only one minute to get the putty combined. In total, you have three minutes of working time with this product from the start of mixing the putty parts to having your item pressed into the putty.

…until they are one solid purple color throughout. You now have only two minutes to press your item into the putty, so be quick but precise.

Pressing Mold:

Take your ball and flatten it in whatever shape you need. In my case I just wanted the front of the face, so I flattened it a bit until it was large enough to cover the entire face.

Press your item into the putty firmly and do not pull back out. I actually pressed the putty up around the skull a little more to get a deeper mold. Keep your item there for 25 minutes.

After the 25 minutes are up, you can remove your item from the putty. If you mixed correctly, the putty should be bendable but solid and should hold the shape perfectly.

Here is my Skull Mold next to the original item. It always looks a little different, but rest assured, if you followed those instructions it will make a great mold!

The skull mold, a little closer up. There you have it, you’re done making a perfect silicone Skull Mold. You can use it for many different materials, like casting resins or chocolate or even make skull ice cubes.

I decided to use some FastCast to make some skull figures for those napkin rings I mentioned above. So here are a few shots of that process, though I won’t go through that step-by-step in the tutorial. I will link to some FastCast projects below so that you can find the process if you would like to try it!

Using Mold:

I made four skulls with FastCast, painted them with a metallic gunmetal gray, and secured them to some painted wooden rings to make these awesome Halloween Skull Napkin rings!  I have so many more ideas for this mold and can’t wait to try some other designs. I’m thinking of a skull covered picture frame and possibly resin skulls to add to a wreath. What would you use your skull mold for?

Stay tuned! I’ll have another project coming soon that uses this skull mold in a different way. Can’t wait to show you!

Thanks again for stopping by! I’d love to hear what you think about this project. Please share this on Pinterest by pinning the image below!

As promised, here are other projects using FastCast so you can learn that method:

Resin Seashell Wall Art using FastCast

DIY Jewelry Organizer: Faux-Marble Ring Cone with FastCast

 

Thanks friends! I’d love to hear your thoughts on this project in the comments!

~~Sheri

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High-Gloss Charcoal Gray Bar Top Makeover with EnviroTex Lite

Mon, 09/18/2017 - 07:00

Hi y’all, it’s Whitney of Whitney J Décor, and today I’m sharing my favorite project yet, because it involves my favorite thing to do: makeover rooms! Being an Interior Designer, I put a lot of pressure on my home to be beautiful, so DIY projects are set to higher standards. I’m happy to say that this bar top project is both high-quality and great looking!

We bought our home in March and haven’t had much time to do any updating, except remodeling our kitchen. Our home is really dated, so it’ll take more time than usual to get our home to where I want it. Now that the kitchen is done, we’re moving on to our living room/bar area. Our bar is massive and has this brown stone tile (that I hate) for the bar top that I would have loved to replace when we replaced our kitchen countertops.

So, because I’m stuck with the stone tile counters on the bar, I decided to paint them a dark color. But, I knew I wouldn’t want to stop there, because our bar top is literally the hub of our home. We serve food there, mix drinks there, drop our purses and wallets there, and basically leave stuff there that we know we need to find the next day (or the next week, don’t judge us, LOL). All this high-traffic means that JUST paint wouldn’t cut it. I knew I needed a high-quality surface that’ll sustain the wear and tear.

EnviroTex Lite was the perfect product to use to coat over the paint and give our bar top a durable, high-gloss, glassy look that we love. I was so intimidated to start on this project, but after I got started, it was so fun and wasn’t hard at all.

If you have a bar top (or a table) that needs a new look, you’ll love this project! Just follow these instructions.

High-Gloss Charcoal Gray Bar Top Makeover with EnviroTex Lite Supplies Needed:
  • EnviroTex Lite
  • Plastic drop cloths
  • Gloves
  • Protective eyewear
  • Graduated mixing buckets
  • Stir sticks
  • Disposable paint brush
  • Small handheld butane torch or barbeque lighter
  • Flat piece of cardboard
  • Supplies for painting your top (optional) (primer, latex paint, and paint brushes/rollers)

Directions: Paint the bar top

I painted our bar top first, because I really wanted to get rid of the look of the ugly stone and I wanted a dark color on the top, since I’ll be painting the brick white soon.

First, I started by cleaning the stone tile with some hot soapy water. Then. I primed the stone tile first (two coats), then used one coat of a dark charcoal paint. I let it completely dry before coating the bar top with the EnviroTex Lite.

To coat your bar top (or table top)
  1. Protect your floor and surrounding areas with plastic drop cloths. Initially, I used a combination of plastic drop cloths AND cloth drop cloths. The EnviroTex Lite went straight through the cloths and stuck to my BRAND NEW floors! It took a lot of strength to pull it off the floors. Don’t be like me… use the plastic drop cloths only.
  2. Put on gloves and protective eyewear.
  3. Clean your surface. If you didn’t have to paint your surface, now is the time to clean your bar top or table with some hot soapy water.
  4. Measure one part of the resin and one part of hardener of the EnviroTex Lite. Using your graduated buckets, measure equal parts of one part of the resin and one part of hardener (by volume, not weight). Don’t try to just pour out the entire contents of part A & part B and expect each of them to be the same volume. You need to measure! Our bar top is huge, so I ended up using two 32 oz kits of EnviroTex Lite.

  1. Pour the two mixtures together and mix for a full two minutes. Using large stir sticks (I use the wood paint sticks that you get from the paint store), mix the components together and stir for an entire two minutes, making sure to scrape the sides and bottom of the container.

  1. Transfer mixture into another container and stir for another minute. Transfer your mixture into a second container, and using a new stir stick, stir the contents for another minute.

  1. Pour the mixture right away. Don’t wait! After mixing, pour your mixture directly over your surface immediately. Make sure to pour your mixture in an even pattern over the surface. Spread your mixture around as needed with a flat piece of cardboard.

  1. Using your disposable brush, brush the bottom edges of the surface you’re coating. You’ll need to do this often, until the mixture hardens enough not to “sag”.

  1. Remove bubbles. For some reason, this part was really fun for me. Using a small butane torch or barbeque lighter, slide the flame around the bar top where you see bubbles, until they’re removed. I got rid of most bubbles then, but went back for a second round about 10 minutes later.

  1. Let cure. Let your bar top (or table) cure for 36-72 hours. Protect the surface by elevating plastic drop cloths over the bar top. We went out of town for a few days, so our bar top cured for a whole 4 days. It’s completely hard and beautiful! And, we only did it in one coat

So, what do you think? Are you ready to start your own large EnviroTex Lite project?

10 Fun DIY Halloween Costumes for All Ages

Fri, 09/15/2017 - 07:00

Have you guys scoped out any of the Halloween costumes in stores this year? We’re all about awesome costumes, but not all about the price tag…. they can be so expensive sometimes! This is why DIY Halloween Costumes are such a great idea not only for adults, but also for kiddos, of course! We’ve rounded up some of the most fun DIY costumes for you to create this Halloween. There are options for all different ages so the whole family can join in! Which one do you plan to create this Fall?

DIY Cowboy Costume | The Country Chic Cottage

DIY Frozen Costumes | A Night Owl Blog

DIY Cactus Costumes | Shrimp Salad Circus

DIY Candy Bar Couple Costume | Oh My- Creative

DIY Toddler Strawberry Halloween Costume | Spot of Tea Designs

DIY Paint Brush Costume | Dukes and Duchesses

DIY Infant Mermaid Costume | The Pinning Mama

DIY Superhero Baby Costume | White House Black Shutters

DIY Scarecrow Tutu Costume | Designer Trapped

DIY Jack Sparrow Costume | The Country Chic Cottage

Do you plan to DIY Halloween costumes this year? We’d love to see them! Have a wonderful weekend friends!

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DIY Leaf Imprint Clay Dish using EasySculpt

Wed, 09/13/2017 - 07:00

One of my favorite home decor items is a small dish that looks great on it’s own, but that is functional and can hold small items temporarily to keep my home feeling less cluttered. Today I want to show you how to make an amazing leaf imprint clay dish using EasySculpt!

Leaf Imprint Clay Dish Supplies:

  • EasySculpt Epoxy Modeling Clay and included Instructions
  • Disposable gloves (a large pair comes in the package, pictured above)
  • Wax paper
  • Clay carving tools
  • Smooth rolling tool
  • Leaves
  • Olive oil
  • Large bowl if you want to mold your bowls
  • Small beads or something to lift sides slightly
  • Paint, if preferred
Mixing the EasySculpt:

Take equal amounts of Part A and Part B. The easiest way to tell you have equal amounts is to roll them into two small balls of the same size.

Begin to knead the two parts together. This will be quite sticky, so use a small amount of olive oil on your gloves and surface to help get through the sticky stage. I found it fastest to put the clay into one palm of my hand and use the other palm to smash them together. Repeat that step until they are completely blended and one solid color and texture.

Shaping your Clay Dish:

When you are done mixing, place the ball onto your work surface and begin to roll it out to the desired size. For this project, I needed it to be large enough to fit inside my red bowl, as you’ll see.

If you are using a bowl “mold” you will want to coat that in a small amount of olive oil, then place the clay into the bowl mold. This step is not necessary if you are just doing a sculpted bowl and using other ways of lifting the sides (as you’ll see in my other two bowls explained below.)

Alright, now that the clay is in the bowl, get your leaves and press them into the clay in the pattern that you want. Cut the excess clay in the shape you want. You could leave the edges flat and just go straight around the top of your bowl, or you could do what I did and cut around the shape of the leaves. It’s all personal preference, which is what makes DIY projects so much fun!

Alright, let that set for awhile until the clay has stiffened up a bit and the imprints will stay sharp, then remove the leaves.

Other options for shaping:

If you are looking for a flatter bowl, more like a dish, then here’s a method that could work for you: Roll out your clay onto wax paper. Press your leaf into the clay. Cut around the leaf (through the wax paper) and make the final shape that you want.

Next, you’ll put beads or any small object underneath all of the sides of the clay. Remember, there should be a liner of wax paper beneath it so it won’t stick to the beads. The beads give the edges a little bit of wave which I thought was great for the leaf design of the dish. When the clay has stiffened up (about 45 minutes later) go ahead and remove the leaf, leaving just an imprint.

As you can see, there is a bunch of detail. It really is a cool process.

Let your dish cure for 24 hours. Here’s another design that I tried. I loved the shape of this leaf as it was a bit different than the others.

Painting Your Clay Dish:

Okay, now that all the bowls have cured for 24 hours, finish them as you wish. You can leave them the natural gray of the clay if you want. I opted to paint mine copper because I am loving copper right now. The metallic finish of it really brings out the details of the leaf imprint.

Project Complete!

Once the paint dries, you’re done! You have an amazingly awesome leaf imprint clay dish and can use it anywhere in your home where you just need a catch-all for small items.

As you can see, with the multi-leaf bowl design there were some air bubbles underneath the leaves. I hadn’t realized that when creating it, so if stuff like that bothers you then be sure to be more careful when placing your leaves. Personally, I think it just gives it a more rustic look and I’m okay with it.

I’ve already placed mine in various spots throughout the house to catch all the little trinkets, coins and jewelry.

Get out there and try the EasySculpt Epoxy Modeling Clay! It’s easy to use and you don’t have to fire it up in a kiln like you would with a normal clay. I’ve got so many more ideas for this clay. What would you do with it? As always, feel free to comment or ask questions! Thanks for checking out my leaf imprint clay dish project!

~Sheri

Concrete Mason Jar Planter

Mon, 09/11/2017 - 07:00

I adore all things mason jar so why not make a concrete mason jar planter? Adding your plants to a concrete jar is the perfect way to add some farmhouse flair to your home. And if I can make one….anyone can!  You can even have mason jar planters in all sizes.

Supplies needed to make a concrete mason jar planter:
  • Mason jar mold (you can see more on how to make the mold here)
  • Pill bottle
  • Stir sticks
  • Hot glue and glue gun
  • Metal bowl
  • Plastic mold sealer
  • Maker’s Mix Concrete
  • Vegetable oil or cooking spray
  • Mixing cup
  • Measuring cup

You will need a mason jar mold to get started.  In case you missed it, here is a post on how to make the mason jar mold itself.  The Castin’ Craft EasyMold Silicone Rubber makes the molding process easy.  We molded a small 4 oz mini mason jar but you can use the same technique to mold any size that you like.

You will need to add plastic mold sealer around the bottom of the mason jar mold as shown below.  Then press the mold into the bottom of the metal bowl.  Press well to ensure that there is a tight seal.  NOTE: This is the only product that I found that will work for this project.

You will also need something to make a hole in the planter where the plant will actually go.  I used an old pill bottle.  Use some hot glue to attach it to a stir stick as shown below.  Coat both the outside of your pill bottle and the inside of your mold with vegetable oil.  I used a cooking spray to make this process easier.

Now you need to mix the concrete in your mixing cup.  Measure according to the package directions for a thin mix then add a little more water.  About 1/2 to 1 tablespoon of additional water should work.  I found that this thinner mix worked best with the mold and allowed me to get the fine detail.  NOTE:  You should measure and mix the concrete with utensils that you can throw away.  Start adding your concrete mixture to the bottom of the mold.  Use an additional stir stick to press the concrete into the bottom and sides as you add.

Fill the mold almost to the top and then press your pill bottle into the center.  The mixture should come almost to the top but not quite.  If you have too little, remove the pill bottle and add more.  If you have too much, remove the pill bottle and remove some.  Then press your pill bottle into place once more.  NOTE:  The stir stick on the pill bottle will prevent you from pressing too far into the mold.

Allow to cure completely with the pill bottle in place.  This mix works FAST so be quick when filling the mold.  However, since we made the mix slightly thinner than directed you will need to allow it to cure a bit longer in the mold.  I waited about an hour before removing.  It took me three tries to get the concrete mason jar planter that is shown in the pictures.  I had to get the technique and mix just right.  If your first one fails, just try again!  Remember you mold is reusable so additional tries just involve mixing up your concrete.  You can definitely make this project work.

Once cured, remove the mold from the metal bowl.  Then remove the pill bottle from the mold.  You may need a pair of pliers to loosen and pull free.  Then work the mason jar mold until the concrete jar comes out of the bottom.  Add in dirt and a plant and your concrete mason jar planter is ready to be displayed.

I love the detail that comes from the mold and into the concrete.  It is the perfect little mini mason jar planter!

Be sure to add this project to your must make list as it would make a great gift.  Once it comes out of the mold and you see this beauty, however, you may not be able to part with it.  I know I gasped upon seeing that adorable little Ball logo embedded in concrete.

If you need me, I will be admiring my cute little succulent in a mason jar.

Grab your supplies and make a concrete mason jar planter for your home today!  I know you will love it just as much as I do!

10 Beautiful DIY Fall Wreaths For Your Home

Fri, 09/08/2017 - 07:11

Leaves changing, cooler weather, and all Fall everything. Yes, please!  We’re always looking forward to decorating with beautiful DIY Fall decor. One of the best things to DIY is a wreath for your home.

Whether you’re a novice to crafting or an expert, there’s surely something here that will catch your eye that you can create affordably for your home! So without further adieu, here is a compilation of some of the most beautiful DIY Fall Wreaths For Your Home.  Let’s get crafting, friends!

DIY Copper Pipe Fall Wreath | Love Create Celebrate

DIY Burlap and Floral Fall Wreath | Sustain My Craft Habit

DIY Wheat Wreath | The Country Chic Cottage

Easy DIY Fall Wreath | Anika’s DIY Life


DIY Burlap Fall Wreath | Today’s Creative Life

DIY Fall Wreath with Acorns | Tried & True

Easy DIY Fall Hydrangea Wreath | A Night Owl Blog

Easy DIY Wreath from Paper | Make Life Lovely

DIY Fall Monogram Wreath | Practically Functional

DIY Embroidery Hoop Wreath | Lydi Out Loud

 

DIY Late-Summer Maple Leaf Resin Paperweight

Wed, 09/06/2017 - 07:00

Capture the natural beauty of the late summer by making a one-of-a-kind maple leaf resin paperweight.

One of the few good things about summer coming to an end is that the beautiful rainbow of autumn leaves is just around the corner. In a few short weeks the leaves will start turning colours and some of most beautiful transformations are by the maple leaves.

Hi again! It’s Jane from Sustain My Craft Habit, a DIY, craft and home decor blog where my sister Sonja and I share new nature-inspired ideas each week.

I’m fortunate to have a large variety of trees, especially maple and oak, in my neighbourhood in Southern Ontario, Canada. On a short walk the other night I quickly collected small leaves from four varieties of maple tree: the classic sugar maple, a silver maple, king maple and a Japanese maple. Putting them side-by-side they created a beautiful rainbow of colours already! I decided to capture them now and create a late-summer maple leaf paperweight with EasyCast Clear Casting Epoxy for my home office. It’s actually really fascinating to look at from all the different angles.

This project does need a bit of planning ahead. Ideally collect the leaves and press them to dry for at least one week. Then you’ll want to generously coat both sides with an all-purpose sealer and let it dry fully. Also, to get the nice floating effect of the leaves in the resin, you’ll make three separate resin pours, with enough time for each layer to cure in-between. This latter part is basically a two-day project.

Supplies needed for DIY Paperweight with EasyCast Resin:

How to make a Leaf-Embedded Resin Paperweight: Preparing the Leaves

As mentioned above, you’ll want to collect the leaves a couple of weeks before you plan to cast them as they should be as dry as possible. Collect them from the tree in the afternoon when they’re the dryest. Place them flat between two sheets of paper towels (which will help to draw out the moisture). Put them between the pages of a book and then stack a couple of heavier books on top.

A little cheat: If you need the leaves to dry faster, you can speed up the process using a microwave. Again, place the leaves flat between paper towel sheets. Press the paper towels with leaves between two microwave-safe plates. These plates should press flat against each other. Microwave on high for 40 seconds. Check them and if needed repeat until the leaves feel fully dry (almost brittle). Note that the microwaved version of the leaves look a bit different than the book-pressed version (more brittle and papery).

When fully dry, lay each sheet on a non-stick surface (such as parchment or wax paper). Coat one side of each leaf generously with a multi-purpose sealer. Let dry fully then turn over and coat the second side. Let dry completely.

Pouring the first Resin Layer

Before starting the project be sure to follow all the directions in the EasyCast package. Work in a well-ventilated area using gloves.

For best results the Resin and Hardener should feel warm to the touch before mixing. To warm it up, place it in warm (not hot) water just prior to using and swirl it around.

Pour ½ oz of the Resin solution into a plastic measuring cup. Add ½ oz of Hardener to the cup. Blend the two components with a wooden craft stick for a full two minutes, scraping the sides and bottom of the cup along the way.

Pour the mixture into a second measuring cup. With a clean craft stick, continue mixing for an additional minute.

Spray the inside of the dome-shaped mold lightly with the Mold Release Conditioner. Pour the resin mixture into the bottom of the mold (should be about ¼ full).

Cover and let set for 15-20 minutes. Blow off any bubbles which rise to the surface with a kitchen torch or your breath, using a straw. Repeat this if needed over the next 45 minutes.

Let the resin cure for about 3 hours. At this point it will be firm yet tacky. Gently place the first leaf (choose the smallest or the one you’d like to showcase the most) onto the resin, with the nicest side of the leaf facing down. This will help to “stick” the first leaf in place so that it doesn’t float to the surface with the next resin layer pour.

Let cure for 6-8 hours.

Pouring the second Resin Layer

Repeat the steps above to mix together the Resin and Hardener, this time using 1 oz of each.

Slowly pour the mixed solution over the first resin layer and let the resin settle underneath the first leaf you placed. Use a toothpick to carefully release any bubbles trapped under the first leaf (or leave them there if you like the effect!).

After 15 – 20 minutes, blow off any bubbles that rise to the surface as above. At this point, start layering the next two leaves face-down. Go slowly and try not to trap air bubbles under the leaves.

I found it worked best to insert the leaves into the resin at an angle rather than simply laying them on top of each other. This gave the air a chance to escape up the surface of the leaves.

The resin will still be quite fluid at this point so you can arrange the leaves as you’d like. I tried to spread mine out. A couple of times I carefully lifted up the mold to see how everything looked from the “top” side and rearranged as needed.

After the resin cured for about 2 hours, I went back in with a toothpick and repositioned some of the leaves to separate them a bit. The resin was pretty thick by this point so I worked slowly and carefully not to damage the leaves (or introduce more air bubbles). I pushed the bottom leaf down as far as it would go as it had floated to the top of the resin.

I then placed the fourth and final leaf on the semi-cured surface of resin, smoothing it out as much as possible.

In the end my final leaf (the dark red King maple) is not that visible, but provides a nice backdrop for the other leaves. I then left it to cure for 3 more hours before pouring the final resin layer.

Pouring the final Resin Layer

Repeat the steps above to mix together the Resin and Hardener, this time using ¾ oz of each.

When the second mixing process is complete, add in 2-3 drops of Pearl Opaque Pigment and blend in completely.

Pour this final layer to fill the mold (do not overfill).

Let the leaf resin paperweight cure for at least 24 hours before attempting to remove from the mold. The piece should be fully cured after about 72 hours.

I must admit I was a little surprised at how nicely this resin paperweight turned out. It has a beautiful glossy surface which looks like glass, and the Opalescent final layer gives the piece a beautiful sparkle when the sun hits it. And most importantly: it works! These leaves were doing their darndest to fly away in the wind storm that was happening when I was taking the pictures. But they stayed put with the help of the new leaf cast resin paperweight.

I’m sure that in the middle of the gray winter it will be a welcome reminder of these last beautifully colourful days of summer. I may even make a second in a few months time when the leaves start to change into their autumn colours. These DIY paperweights would also make a thoughtful handmade gift idea for your boss, a co-worker, the kids’ teachers or any nature-loving friend.

If you enjoyed this nature-inspired project with resin, you’ll love how our fellow Resin Crafts Blog Creative Team Member Natalie created beautiful pressed-leaf pendants.

Similarly, pop on over and see how we made these lovely lavender resin pendants.

If you could, which summer flowers or leaves would you want to make a paperweight from?

Like it? Pin it for Later!

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